Topic Sponsor
1987 - 1996 F150 Still running strong! Talk about your 8th and 9th generation Ford F150 trucks.

1992 F150 stalls when hot

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-21-2018, 08:22 PM
  #11  
Member
Thread Starter
 
KurtD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 36
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Steve,

I looked at pictures of the breakout box and figured it just made it easier to identify the PIN numbers and easier to use the normal multimeter leads. I found a diagram of the 60 PIN connector and determined pins 1-20, 21-40, and 41-60. I used small pieces of wire and inserted into the corresponding pin for each test. Then used alligator clips to connect the multimeter leads to the small piece of wire in the pin holes.

I have not pulled the EEC. Trying to take things slowly so I don’t break things.

If I followed the procedure above correctly, and everything measured correctly, do you agree with the procedure above that at least removing and inspecting the EEC is the next step?

Thanks
Old 05-23-2018, 10:49 AM
  #12  
Member

 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
Posts: 11,256
Received 1,731 Likes on 1,487 Posts
Default

Inserting anything into the mating side of a female terminal is risky because you can deform the terminal such that it won't make good contact with the male pin. It's better to backprobe the connector or pierce-probe the wire. Yes, if you believe you did that procedure correctly, then you have to believe its conclusion. The EEC isn't fragile, and neither is anything you have to remove to get at it, but it's good that you're being cautious.
Old 05-23-2018, 07:34 PM
  #13  
Member
Thread Starter
 
KurtD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 36
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

I removed the EEC. Everything looked okay at first but then I saw two black spots in the closeups under the capacitors. Are those spots enough to determine the EEC needs to be replaced? I’ve read about others replacing capacitors, but my soldering skills are not that good.





Old 05-23-2018, 08:23 PM
  #14  
Member

 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
Posts: 11,256
Received 1,731 Likes on 1,487 Posts
Default

You can buy the 3 capacitors, and an inexpensive soldering iron with some fine solder, and replace them yourself for a few bucks & an hour or so. Watch a few YouTube videos of how to solder in a replacement component on a PC board. It'll be much cheaper & quicker than sending the EEC out for repair, or trying to track down one that fits your truck. Go back to the pic in post #10, and follow the link in its caption.
Old 05-23-2018, 09:01 PM
  #15  
Member
Thread Starter
 
KurtD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 36
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

I found a remanufactured A-1 Cardone on Rockauto for $130 after core charge. Same part number as what I have. I will try the repair first and see how it goes.. Just need to replace the three blue capacitors? No need to replace the yellow ?? next to the blue capacitor?

Thanks
Old 05-23-2018, 10:53 PM
  #16  
Member

 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
Posts: 11,256
Received 1,731 Likes on 1,487 Posts
Default

Right - only the 3 electrolytic capacitors. If you're curious why, go to Wikipedia & read about "capacitor plague".



Quick Reply: 1992 F150 stalls when hot



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:17 AM.