1990 F-150 Build, and Electric Fan Swap
#153
That's what I thought... The E4OD is essentially a C6 controlled electronically. That's what I meant by wanting a C6...
Thanks for the quick responses guys, I fly out in 10 hours.
Thanks for the quick responses guys, I fly out in 10 hours.
#154
Maybe to many trucks?
E4OD also has OD where as C6s do not.
However I personally hate how the E4OD shifts and the AOD and C6 shift way better but AODs aren't in the 92-96 trucks to my knowledge.
Trav
However I personally hate how the E4OD shifts and the AOD and C6 shift way better but AODs aren't in the 92-96 trucks to my knowledge.
Trav
#155
Moderator (Ret.)
Digging up this thread to report:
I just re-installed my Mark Viii fan into my 2007 F150. As I posted (perhaps too much) about this fan, controllers, and personal experiences with those who sold controllers, I located the fault with my last install, using a Ron Fransis controller. The issue ended up being a lousy 5 dollar 40 amp relay! I was using the Ron Fransis controller, and for the high speed fan, I had the 30 amp relay on this controller triggering the 40 amp to supply the voltage to the fan. The low speed worked fine, it was the high speed that would occasionally trip the relay on the controller. Per the customer service folks at Ron Fransis, I could either send the controller back for a 40 amp mod, or use a 40 amp relay externally; I chose the second option, as I did not want down time on my truck. I went and purchased a 40 amp relay with a built in fuse; this fuse had a poor tack weld that broke, and this was the reason for my second speed issue.
Since then, I purchased a flex o lite variable controller (regulates the current to a high speed, high draw e-fan), it is working perfectly with the Mark Viii 2 speed fan.
However, the Ron Fransis also works fine, you would just need to be sure it has 40 amp relays, at least for the Mark Viii's high speed.
I just re-installed my Mark Viii fan into my 2007 F150. As I posted (perhaps too much) about this fan, controllers, and personal experiences with those who sold controllers, I located the fault with my last install, using a Ron Fransis controller. The issue ended up being a lousy 5 dollar 40 amp relay! I was using the Ron Fransis controller, and for the high speed fan, I had the 30 amp relay on this controller triggering the 40 amp to supply the voltage to the fan. The low speed worked fine, it was the high speed that would occasionally trip the relay on the controller. Per the customer service folks at Ron Fransis, I could either send the controller back for a 40 amp mod, or use a 40 amp relay externally; I chose the second option, as I did not want down time on my truck. I went and purchased a 40 amp relay with a built in fuse; this fuse had a poor tack weld that broke, and this was the reason for my second speed issue.
Since then, I purchased a flex o lite variable controller (regulates the current to a high speed, high draw e-fan), it is working perfectly with the Mark Viii 2 speed fan.
However, the Ron Fransis also works fine, you would just need to be sure it has 40 amp relays, at least for the Mark Viii's high speed.
#156
What's yalls opinion on this situation. The performance shop i took my parts to said the controller wouldn't work so they just wired it on high all the time. Seems odd to me. I guess the controller could be bad, but it's a pretty tough looking controller and supposily was brand new according to the guy i bought it from. Anyways, I'm gonna have that shop or someone else test the controller. I have a feeling the shop was just afraid w/out it on high all the time the truck would overheat. Not real happy right now
#157
Salvage Yard Pro
Without knowing what controller you are using, it's really hard to say. I can tell you this, running on high all the time will kill your battery. With a properly functioning cooling system, there should be no need for it to run at highway speed at all. I run the $18 advanced auto controller with both fans on high only above 195-200 and at highway speed, the fans are dormant. Now with that said, I'm not running AC at the moment. With AC, you'll want the fans on at least low with the ac on. This can be accomplished by wiring one fan to the ac switch via a relay and the other fan on the controller. You can wire one fan to run with the ac and use the controller as a bypass to run when needed above normal temps. The beauty of dual factory fans is the ability to have twin two speed fans with a number of of options. Low/Low, High High, Low High, Single or dual. Running each fan on separate relays allows for a fail safe as well. One fan dies, unplug the trigger on the relay and take that fan out of operation while maintaining the second fan until repairs can be made without fear of burning up the assembly or the wiring.
#158
Without knowing what controller you are using, it's really hard to say. I can tell you this, running on high all the time will kill your battery. With a properly functioning cooling system, there should be no need for it to run at highway speed at all. I run the $18 advanced auto controller with both fans on high only above 195-200 and at highway speed, the fans are dormant. Now with that said, I'm not running AC at the moment. With AC, you'll want the fans on at least low with the ac on. This can be accomplished by wiring one fan to the ac switch via a relay and the other fan on the controller. You can wire one fan to run with the ac and use the controller as a bypass to run when needed above normal temps. The beauty of dual factory fans is the ability to have twin two speed fans with a number of of options. Low/Low, High High, Low High, Single or dual. Running each fan on separate relays allows for a fail safe as well. One fan dies, unplug the trigger on the relay and take that fan out of operation while maintaining the second fan until repairs can be made without fear of burning up the assembly or the wiring.
#160
Salvage Yard Pro
I hear ya on killing the batt. Im gonna order a different controller and have them wire it in. The wiring is top notch but no controller and on high when the ignition is on isn't going to work. Draws too much current. I don't want to say whose controller it is until I'm sure it's dead.
Just sayin'