ymeski56

Not that simple.

What transmission, EAOD?

brandonwh64

I will take a picture of the numbers on the side but I think its a E4OD

dylan_94

Transmission ID

brandonwh64

I will crawl under it today before I go hunting and take a snap shot.

Thank you for all your help! I really do appreciate it!

rikard

On your drivers side door jamb there shouild be a vehicle ID sticker that gives a code for the transmission installed at the factory along with the rear axle type and ratio. Post the codes on here and someone will know or search for decoder info. Beats crawling under the truck.
regards
rikard

qdeezie

Your truck should have a roller block from the factory, even though it uses a flat tappet camshaft. The main differences between the truck and Mustang are:

1) Intake Manifold - Continue to use the truck upper and lower.

2) Camshaft. The 89 has a flat tappet camshaft and the Mustang has a pretty good roller camshaft. (The 86-88 Mustang camshafts are very aggressive.)

3) Pistons - The Mustang used forged pistons until 93. 1992 was the last year for the forged pistons. Trucks used cast pistons.

4) There are other minor difference such as valve covers, oil pan and timing cover. Keep using your truck parts here.

Other items to consider:

Camshafts: Regarding the B303 camshaft, there are much better options out there. Also, you have to keep in mind that the truck is much heavier than the Mustang and has a different fuel induction system as mentioned in a previous post, so what works nicely for a Mustang may not work as well for the truck.

If you're looking from a budget perspective, the stock Mustang HO cam is a nice upgrade for the truck 302. Also, the 94-96 F150 / 96-2001 Explorer camshafts aren't too shabby either.

Regarding aftermarket cams, 35-512-8 from Comp Cams is a nice starting point. There are other cams from Crane, Howard, etc. as well as custom ground cams.

Heads:
Regarding GT40 heads, you have the 93-95 GT40 heads that came on Cobras and Lightnings, then you have the 96-early 97 GT40 heads that came on Explorers and Mountaineers. The main difference between the two is that the 93-95 have the smog port on them if you want to keep your emissions stuff connected. If you could care less about the emissions stuff, the 96-97 heads are the way to go.

Other thoughts:
As with any build, it comes down to time and money. In my opinion, the weak area on SBFs is the heads. That is probably the area that you'd want to invest the most time and money in prior to doing anything else. If I had to build my engine over again knowing what I know now, the very first thing I would have done is secured a set of aluminum aftermarket heads (Brodix, Trick Flow or AFR) or a set of cast iron GT40 heads and had them ported. I ended up using stock GT40s because I honestly ran out of time and needed to get my truck inspected.

Hopefully this info helps some.

Never_Evil

If you were to change over to the mustang engine, keep your intake, tin, and wire harness. The Mustang engine will have a roller camshaft and is ground more towards the HP side where as the truck cam is flat tappet and ground more towards the torque. You can put retro fit lifters into your flat tappet truck block, but if you can get the mustang engine, that will work as well.

Another thing to consider is the water pump whether its standard rotation or reverse rotation and which side the water outlet points. If you move your truck timing cover and water pump, that will cut down on problems.

The heads are the EXACT SAME. A lot of guys just call them E7 heads because they were designed that way for the 1987 model engines and were not changed until the 1996 explorer used the 5.0L. They used the E7 heads on Trucks, Thunderbirds, Mustangs, Crown Vics, and Vans and comparable Lincoln and Mercury vehicles in both 302 and 351w applications. The 351w heads had 1/2" head bolt holes and the 302 had 7/16" head bolt holes.

You might be better suited with an "RV" cam rather than a performance cam. Keep the lift under .500" and you can run stock heads and springs. Anything more you will need to get machine work done to them, at which point it would be more cost effective to get after market heads.

If you are going for acceleration rather than pulling, changing your axle gearing will also help move your power band to a lower RPM range.

90customf150

In order to install mustang cam..I believe firing order needs to be altered. Your truck has a flat tappet cam. The block is tapped for roller conversion. You have to be very careful when choosing a cam for speed density (supposedly) people have run huge cams with much success, however I did not. I chose a comp 31-255-5. I highly recommend this cam.

brandonwh64

Thanks for the reply! I have been talking with a friend that builds mustangs and he has a donor car that he needed for another project that has a newer (90 model) 5.0 HO roller engine that he said he would give me to get this project going. I have been pricing cams for flat tappet and I also considered using a older cam that I already own but I have forgotten the specs of it. The story on this cam is that me and my dad had a project going on with a 76 long bed and we built the engine that was in it (bore 40 over, Big cam, new flat top pistons, and more that I cannot remember) but the project kinda halted when the block was cracked at the water pump housing due to a long bolt was place in a shallow hole and it split the block. Since then the engine has yet to be ran and has sat in my dads storage building for 14 years (yikes)! The engine has been turned over and oil placed in it once a year and recently my dad told me to come pick it up cause he was running out of room in his building. I brought it to my house and it has slight surface rust but still turns over freely and looks very good internally. Since the cam had never been used would it be possible to use it in my engine along with the pistons? The only thing I can remember about the cam is that it was a wolverine blue racer cam which is now owned by crane cams.

*EDIT*

Here is the door sticker