dr_bowtie

ugh! been working my tail off! Got a promotion at work about 3 and a half months ago and haven't had time to do anything... my truck is still running strong but, I still gotta get the gauges, etc. to check the fuel pressure at the end of the track as well as get the shift kit/torque converter put in... all is well, thanks for asking!

I remember you saying on here a few times that you have a 160 degree stat in your truck. I have a '96 302 and am about to switch mine. If i remember right you said that every degree over 160 you lose about .5 hp and about 1 hp in built motors. Hopefully i'm not just making all of this up but i think i remember seeing this. I'm also pretty sure i remember you saying you increased gas mileage by using a 160 degree stat. My question is that another guy on here said he had a 160 degree stat and changed it to a 190 and he got better gas mileage by doing that. Is that guy wrong in what he's saying? Just wanted to confirm with you that a 160 degree stat is a good move. thanks

You got it

http://www.f150forum.com/f11/stroker...41/#post547662

Hey man you seem to be the sites ultimate guru on engines and I was wondering if I could ask you a question about my 302.

I'm looking for a bit more "go". Not so I can run 9's at the strip but just for fun

I've done alot of reading online and have come across stroker kits, would this be an ideal way too go ?

This is my first time with something like this and I'm not even sure what I would need to make a kit work,

thanks, james.

could you please send me a link to ID ford rear ends, ive looked thru but cant seam to find it. Thank You

haha yeah they're a little more expensive now, i didn't know if they were universal or not, have you had any luck with throttle body spacers or know if theyre worth the money?

hey there i saw on one of your posts where you said you had a msd box, i've got a 302 and was on summit and cant find one for it, just wondering where you got yours and which you would recommend. thanks

thats exactly what i was thinking about doing.... testing the MAP sensor.... i have a haynes manual, so that should tell me the voltages.... what do you mean when you said "digital MAP sensor?"

hmmm so your saying that if my truck didn't die right away when i unplugged my MAP sensor, then it might be bad? i unplugged it, and it did nothing what so ever haha all those EGR problems that i was having, ended up being a loose vacuum hose that took me FOREVER to find.... the check engine light hasnt came on for the EGR in a few days (i'm hoping i fixed it), but the CEL light came on after i had the MAP unplugged for a few minutes.... what do you think i should do first? replace the distributor cap/rotor button? or replace the MAP sensor? or both?

So yea, today i got to fiddling around with my truck while it was idling in my driveway. I had to disconnect the AC compressor because every time i turn on my windshield defroster, it turns my AC compressor on and makes me lose power and fuel economy. Anyways, i decided to unplug my MAP sensor and see if it would calm the hiccuping down a little bit. When i unplugged my MAP sensor, i left it unplugged for about 5 minutes while the truck was idling, and the check engine light came on.... it made me think, if my MAP sensor was bad, then wouldn't it already be throwing a code for a bad MAP sensor? the only code that i WAS getting, was EGR Flow Excessive, and that was because i had a loose vaccum line. I fixed that the other day. For a couple of days now, it hasn't been hiccuping very much like it was doing, but it still misses one time about every 10 seconds when at idle. I think im going to replace the distributor cap/rotor button and see if that fixes it. Do you have any other ideas?