dr_bowtie

haha yeah they're a little more expensive now, i didn't know if they were universal or not, have you had any luck with throttle body spacers or know if theyre worth the money?

hey there i saw on one of your posts where you said you had a msd box, i've got a 302 and was on summit and cant find one for it, just wondering where you got yours and which you would recommend. thanks

thats exactly what i was thinking about doing.... testing the MAP sensor.... i have a haynes manual, so that should tell me the voltages.... what do you mean when you said "digital MAP sensor?"

hmmm so your saying that if my truck didn't die right away when i unplugged my MAP sensor, then it might be bad? i unplugged it, and it did nothing what so ever haha all those EGR problems that i was having, ended up being a loose vacuum hose that took me FOREVER to find.... the check engine light hasnt came on for the EGR in a few days (i'm hoping i fixed it), but the CEL light came on after i had the MAP unplugged for a few minutes.... what do you think i should do first? replace the distributor cap/rotor button? or replace the MAP sensor? or both?

So yea, today i got to fiddling around with my truck while it was idling in my driveway. I had to disconnect the AC compressor because every time i turn on my windshield defroster, it turns my AC compressor on and makes me lose power and fuel economy. Anyways, i decided to unplug my MAP sensor and see if it would calm the hiccuping down a little bit. When i unplugged my MAP sensor, i left it unplugged for about 5 minutes while the truck was idling, and the check engine light came on.... it made me think, if my MAP sensor was bad, then wouldn't it already be throwing a code for a bad MAP sensor? the only code that i WAS getting, was EGR Flow Excessive, and that was because i had a loose vaccum line. I fixed that the other day. For a couple of days now, it hasn't been hiccuping very much like it was doing, but it still misses one time about every 10 seconds when at idle. I think im going to replace the distributor cap/rotor button and see if that fixes it. Do you have any other ideas?

no I dont...I have a lowly 4.9L

do you have a nite?? if so...where r the pics?

I dont have a tach but I have a hand held one and it idles at 600rpm....

congrats on finding the issue...be sure to post up in your thread so others can see as it may help someone if they go searching for the same kind of issues....thanks

well found out the problem with my truck it was my fuel injectors. one of them quit working. i had noticed it a couple days before this happened. i have a mechanics stethescope and was listening for a ticking sound on my truck and was listening to the fuel injectors and heard that #3 was different than the other ones. i found this out when i stuck stock injectors back in after i had the bigger # injectors in for a while. then truck ran like crap again. so i just replaced #3 and6 to kind of narrow the problem down.

and for your timing do you have a tach? and what does it idle at?

helped power a bunch...I have traction issues in wet weather now...even in third just barely going...helped the torque a bunch...

I dont seem to have lost any mileage either...but I do think it raised the starting idle a little bit...I would say try it and see what results you get and let me know...I would be curious what others get...I honestly think you could get away with 20deg as the base...I may try bumping up mine by 2deg until I get there and see what happens...