hey man havent seen ya on in a while hope all is well with the fam and stuff cuz i remember ya postin a thread about that. so yeah hope alls well and ya can come back on more often. ps i watched squidbillies and wow is all i have to say haha

new signiture idea, (valves are warped, rods are thrown, engines are replaced, process repeats!) haha lol, tell me what u think!

Hey I've got a question for ya, I heard it could be my Ignition module but I was just wanting to make sure. My truck has died on me while driving for about 30 min. It will turn over but it won't start up, I'll wait for about 30 min, and It'll start back up. Almost seem's like It's a fuel problem, but I can hear the pump come on. If that matter's. Any help would be appreciated.

Sean, I have a problem. I have hooked up everything in my truck when I did the std conversion. On the E40D when I took it out, there was two wiring plugs that I unplugged off of it. Now, on the std, there's obviously no spot to plug them into. But now, my truck doesn't want to start. Was I supposed to do something with the wires? Perhaps maybe the netural safety switch wires or something? http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/Trans_harness.gif is a good link to see all the wires to my harness. If you could help me out, it would be greatly appreciated. I have no clue what to do. Everything electrical works on my truck (cb, lights, etc.) but it won't start. The thing just goes click. and doesnt do a darn thing. , thats why im thinking i had to do something with the wiring harness on the E40D tranny. Thanks a lot in advance.

I sunk the ole Ford in a mineing pond after doing some fishin from a 60 degree sand hill pit from Hell. Anyway to make a long story short, she sucked water and I had to pull plugs and crank to get out of giant sand pit(nothing would get me out except biggest wrecker and I didn't want to pay for them). I changed all fluids and filters and have worked all bugs out that I can after waiting 2 weeks after drying out inside and out. I've got a couple codes I can't figure out (except ones labeled)? 401-Egr flow insufficient
1130-
1131-
1150-
1151-
1153pd-
1152-
172-system too rich(bank1)
Truck is studdering when accelerating most of the time. When I open her up she seems to come alive. I would appreciate any help. Thank you sir.
Daniel

Had it towed to a mechanic who could only get it to run for a couple of seconds by spraying ether in it.

Had it towed to a different place to have diagnostics ran
They said that there is now way for them to check the fuel pumps without dropping the tanks. They said the selector switch was turned to the front tank and that I would need to replace both fuel pumps just to be sure that if one was replaced it wouldnt continue to siphon gas to the none working tank. What I can't figure out is how they were able to tell me 100% the front tank needed to be replaced and were unable to tell me if the back one is good or not.
The truck only has 93,956 miles on it. What are the odds both pumps crapped out at once. Also is there a way to change the wire on the selector switch so that if the back pump is good, I can run that as my one tank and not have to replace a fuel pump.

I've searched some other post and saw something about an inertia switch and a fuse


Thanks Again

I currently have dual tanks with a problem dumping fuel back and forth to each other.

Mechanic says we need to replace both fuel pumps to be positive it wont stop working on me again.

So my question is, is it possible to run a different line possibly rubber from the front tank to wherever it needs to go to the engine, and lose use of the back tank completely?

It currently has the hard plastic lines and they say it might not be do able.

I don't mind replacing one pump, but I can't afford to do both to this truck

Any help useful

Thanks

Nice picture, Sean...
Squidbilles is an awesome show..

Hey Florida Sean. You said something about Coke-a-Cola and chrome plaiting, how's that work?

Sean, I've got a 91 f150 4X4. I've had the engine rebuilt with a slight RV cam. I've replaced about every sensor that can be replaced, along with the EGR valve. Still my idle fluctuates when in gear (automatic, also rebuilt). Replaced all vacuum lines, canister isn't leaking.
When I pull up to stop, if I slowly pull up and easy on the brake I might make it through the red light without this happening, strange huh? I've copied your code reading page and pic. Only code I ever got though, was EGR valve related, and I replaced that.
Any ideas?