plb9808

I need a new engine.
94 F150 5.0 4x4 XLT automatic transmission
I can get a reman engine from Autozone and my father and uncle will be helping with the work but I live in Wichita and they're in Kansas City. I'm wondering what all different parts, bolts, gaskets, plugs, wires, belts, hoses, fluids, etc that I need to purchase, other than the new 5.0 engine, before I drive up there and then realize I don't have X and we are running back and forth to Autozone. Seems like there may be a checklist or something like that out there somewhere...Thanks in advance!

Manuellabour247

Where at in Wichita?

Ok, here's a few things to look for:

1. What are you getting? Long Block or Short Block?
2. What comes with the engine from AZ?
3. Check all of your grounds/wiring while the engine is out.
4. Check all of your vaccuum lines.
5. Might as well replace the radiator hoses if they look worn and weather checked.
6. Flush your radiator and heater core as best you can so you have a clean cooling system for the new engine.
7. You can take the starter and alternator separately before you pull the engine to get them tested. (Also take the battery)
8. Get enough oil and 2 filters for 2 oil changes.
9. Motor mounts if your's look like they are oil coated.


I'm sure there's other things, but those are the first ones that come to my mind when swapping an engine. Also, make sure you have baggies for the bolts. Using white masking tape and a sharpie will help you put the wires back where they go with the install.

plb9808

Oh thank you very much! That'll get me started.
I'm getting a long block.
A better question (for me) is "what DOESN'T come with the engine from AZ...They list out a bunch of stuff but I have NO IDEA what else I'd be missing...
As far as radiator hoses and vacuum lines, I figure I'll buy some and if I don't end up needing them, I can take them back.
Yes, I'll take alternator and starter out before heading up and have them checked out. It's a new battery.
Why 2 oil filters and 2 oil changes? Just wondering.
Lastly, not exactly Wichita...Derby! Thanks!!! I'm not doing this till middle of September but wanted to get a heads up on things I can do to be as prepared as possible.

Manuellabour247

I live down near Haysville. Lol. With a new engine, I'm sure they will give you break in procedures. That means after "X" amount of running/driving you'll want to change your oil so that any initial wear metals from break in do not clog your oil system. I say 2 based on past experience. I usually do the first oil change like they recommend then do another at 1000-1500 miles instead of the normal 3000 mile change to make sure I got the wear metals from break in out of the system as best I can. That's personal opinion though.

Do you have a part number for the engine you're ordering?

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

first, is it pan to pan - does it come with an oil pan and rocker covers ? If not you'll want to scare some of those up and have them cleaned up, ready to go on.
You will need an intake gasket set (everything you would need to change lifters, basically).
You will need a timing case set (all the gaskets to change a timing chain).

Oil and filter, like Manuel said, a couple gallons of coolant as well. New thermostat - and water pump.
And motor mounts would be a good idea - yours are probably 20 years old and they are kind of important.
Dist. cap, wires plugs.

For tools the basics plus you'll need a puller to get the vibration damper off the front, and bolts for it that fit the damper.
2 things that will stop you cold are at the intake you will need the inserts that unlock the fuel lines (the plastic set with 6 or more sizes usually work fine at the intake) and - you need a special setup to remove the upper intake.
It's held on by 6 bolts, --- the center one closest to the passenger side is not a bolt, it's a torx head.
You can't get at it the normal way at all. I don't recall if it's a T25, T30 or T35, but maybe somebody else can chime in there.
What you have to have is the right size bit in a 1/4" socket, an extension, probably 8 or 10" (tape the socket to the extension) and an adaptor so you can put a 3/8" ratchet on top of the whole thing.
Good idea to make sure that torx bolt head is cleaned out ahead of time (flashlight, air hose).
Then you can drop it down from the top (there's a groove) into the bolt and crack it loose with your 3/8" ratchet. The socket and extension have to be 1/4" - 3/8" won't fit down there.
Those are the 2 things that'll shut the job down.

After all that, it's the basics but there's a couple things you'll run into.
Some of the water pump/ timing cover and lower intake bolts may snap on you - go to a wrecking yard and get a complete set (may take several motors) and get them cleaned up ahead of time.

The other problem will be with your exhaust manifolds and everything attached to them (upper intake mount, air pump brackets, coil bracket and dipstick bracket). 8 times out of 10 they rust to the bolt and just fall apart when you try to undo the nuts that hold them.
If you can get some off in one piece at the wreckers that would be good. And exhaust manifold bolts would be good to have ahead of time so you can clean them up.

The studs at the back of the manifolds that hold the y-pipe are also probably going to snap, so having another set of manifolds ready to go ahead of time would keep from having the motor swap go on hold while you try to figure out how to deal with the studs.

Lastly, that I can think of, is that there are 4 crappy little speed nuts that hold your engine wiring harness to the rocker cover bolts in the 4 corners. They're a real PITA to get loose, so that's something you could try and get taken care of ahead of time.

That ought to keep you busy for a bit.

plb9808

I seriously wish you could see the look on my face...paying that mechanic a couple thousand is sounding better and better. I know my helpers know what to do, but seriously. Thank you!

Manuellabour247

You are going to pay a mechanic to swap motors for a couple thousand? A motor swap should be no more than 1k and that's on a motor like my 2013 truck. The older motors might take a little longer to do it right, but there's not near as much as there is with the modern engines.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like more than it is. You would want to do the same kind of prep stuff before taking it to a mechanic at 100.00 an hour.
reality is that you're putting in a brand new motor but the one you're taking out is 20 years old.
Bolts corrode, and they snap.
If you get the prep work done on the list there, you should be covered for most anything that will not go smooth (because the engine's old).
Good thing is that if a bolt snaps you don't have to drill it out, you have another one ready and it's going in to the new motor.
Other things to think about is to make sure your starter bolts and transmission inspection cover bolts will come loose ok. Like with any of the other ones, sometimes they just come undone and other times they can be a real nuisance.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

I should say that I'm just trying to help you make sure you're covered for all the bad things that might happen. Sometimes they come apart like a dream. But usually on motors that old you'll run into 2 or 3 of those problems. If you're prepared, they're not such a big deal.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

That torx head bit you will need is a T40.