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I have a 1994 XLT, 4wd, 351. Without incident the transmission began winding out and slam into the next gear. I then noticed that the speedometer wasn't working and the digital odometer was blank. I checked fuse #8 and found it to be blown. #18 was OK. I noticed that the rear cab lights was on this fuse and I've been having trouble with water getting into it as was the case. I dried it out and replaced the fuse but still nothing. Next would be the VSS but that would be coincidental unless the issue that blew the fuse damaged the sensor, but I'm not convinced. I don't want to replace parts only to find that's not the problem. Does anyone have any ideas or know how to bench test the VSS?
speedo has to be working for the trans to shift properly. There's something else on that circuit as well - is it the lighter ?
Anyway the speedo has to have power - does it ?
As for the VSS, it's just a magnetic sensor, on off on off depending on whether there is a tooth or a space (on the tone ring) lined up with it.
Bob, you said that you replaced fuse 8 which was blown. Did it blow as soon as you replaced it? Does the truck have lighted vanity mirrors? If so, I would check the wiring to the vanity mirror/s. IIRC, the wires would chaff at the mirror mount/swivel going into the headliner. I see that fuse 8 powers the courtesy and under hood lamps, power mirrors, vanity mirrors, PSOM, keyless entry and warning chime.
No it did not blow the new fuse but nothing on that circuit works. I do have power across the fuse so it's good.
Originally Posted by cts2433
Bob, you said that you replaced fuse 8 which was blown. Did it blow as soon as you replaced it? Does the truck have lighted vanity mirrors? If so, I would check the wiring to the vanity mirror/s. IIRC, the wires would chaff at the mirror mount/swivel going into the headliner. I see that fuse 8 powers the courtesy and under hood lamps, power mirrors, vanity mirrors, PSOM, keyless entry and warning chime.
If you have no B+ to anything on the LG/Y circuit, I would check the circuit from the backside of the fuse box to S214 in the diagram below. S214 location is main harness to take out to warning chime module.
Thanks for everyone's input. I finally figured out the speedometer but after taking apart my dash and removing and re-installing the gauge cluster housing I now notice that the fuel gauge and battery/amp gauge needles are off the scale and obviously not working. Does anyone know how to reset these gauges?
What was the issue with the speedo? All the gauges are powered by 10 amp fuse # 17 in interior fuse panel. There gauges should not need adjusting and should've reset to proper position when you cycled the ignition on. But the gauge needles are pressed onto the shafts and can be removed carefully as not to bend the shafts. I would double check the printed circuit and the instrument cluster connector very closely where you'll most likely find the problem. But if all checks out okay, the fuel gauge should read empty @ 22 ohms and full @ 154-162. Check fuel sender resistance at cluster and set the gauge to corresponding resistance. Check battery voltage and set battery gauge same way.
Pardon me while I hijack this older thread as I have a similar issue.
I have a 1993 F150 XL with 5.0L V8 and E4OD. The ABS light is on, the speedo doesn't work and the odo displays but doesn't increase.
So far I've replaced the VSS in the rear-end, replaced the PSOM/Speedo part in the cluster and replaced the RABS module behind the glove box. I also looked at the wiring briefly that plugs the O2 sensor into the Y-Pipe and it appeared new.
When I replaced the RABS and started up the truck, I did hear a loud click coming from the RABS box and the ABS light came back on. I've tried to pull the ABS codes, but haven't had much luck getting it to give me the codes.
I know that the previous owner(s) haven't changed the transmission fluid in quite some time (it's grey/black). Is there a VSS in the transmission that could have gotten mucked up with the dirty tranny fluid? I'm going to bring it in to get a transmission flush and fluid change along with the filter.
I'm also wondering if it's possible that there's a worn wire somewhere and that was the cause of the click when I plugged in the "new" RABS module. Are there typical spots I should look for? The truck appears to have sat for some time and there's a considerable amount of rust on the frame and various parts (the cab fared very well though, very little rust.)
02-15-2016, 06:55 PM
Speedometer/odometer doesn't work
