rockitapart

Thanks! I'll try that and see what happens.

rockitapart

grounds all working with test light. cleaned anyway. could the icm cause this or would i not be getting any spark at all? I'm getting spark and fuel, but spark is still orange. i'm gonna put new spark plugs. how do you know if the distributor has gone bad. cap has been relplaced. Could this be timing?

Aktech

You got weak spark,needs to be blue.

5Rangers

Are saying you want to replace the plugs again?
You said are getting the following codes :

21 coolant Temp Sensor out of range
23 Throttle Position Sensor out of range
24 Intake Air Temp Sensor out of range
32 EGR Valve not seated; closed voltage low
67 Neutral Drive Switch circuit open

Lets go over what you have done:

• Replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil
• Replaced the air temp sensor, throttle position sensor, egr valve
• Sprayed ether in the air intake and it will not start and the spark is orange
• Turned the dist while starting and you can hear the fuel pumps turn on
• Cleaned and secured grounds.

So, we can’t know what the timing is set at.
It appears there is a weak spark.

We still have codes ******* us, but, you got those codes with a KOEO?

I think you should still take a look at and clean the connector to the PCM, it a shot in the dark but easily done. Do you have a meter and know how to use one?

5Rangers

Here is the trouble shooting sequence from the Haynes manual to check the distributor mounted ICM, PIP, coil primary and secondary.The last page shows continuity checks for the ICM, you have to remove it from the distributor and check it with a meter.

Aktech

I would test the pip,icm and the wires going to them. Also testing the wires going to the new coil. As for the codes we don`t know what the temp is when he tested. I would test power to ect,iat,tps,svp and re-just the mlp. The Code 21 and 23 needs to be above 50 at the sensors or it may give you a code. Depending on the test results of the above,I would lean to the computer it self.

5Rangers

I agree, probably never got to operating temperature, thus the temp sensor codes, and never did the WOT test, thus the TPS code.

rockitapart

wow, thanks for the response guys! i've taken the icm off and it seems to be reading within acceptable limits. I have a new one, and tested it too, and it seems slightly stonger on a couple of the readings. i was gonna try and take out the distributor to get the icm off, but that son of a bitch is stuck in there good, so i just went and bought the tool....hope i don't end up having to get that out. Are these usually that hard to get out? Gonna test pip and leads to icm, coil, etc.

rockitapart

ok, i've been busy, but finally got back to it. i put a pin in connector 6 of module connector and it read borderline. took out dist. and replaced at tdc on 1. i'm at my wit's end. everyone i've talked to said it points to grounding or wiring issue....any other ideas? how do i track down this open circuit or ground or whatever it is???

Aktech

The grounding wires are there you just have to look for them. The negative battery cable has a little one going to the front than the main goes down to the frame and engine. There should be one on the fire wall by the map sensor. One or two off the exhaust. Clean the connections on the things that have failed. After those are cleaned I would repull codes. If they are still there start testing the power to the tps, ect, act and the evp. Take the egr off and suck and blow on it. Does it leak? Than clean it if it does. The evp is tested with both multimeter and hand vac pump. If you got power to the ect and act most of the time they are just replaced. After the work that you have done now, what is the color of spark?67 Neutral Drive Switch circuit open
I don`t know how or why I missed this. This is the first thing I would fix. I`ll find you so info for this. Do you have a multimeter and hand vac pump?