Starter won't disengage after engine starts
#1
Starter won't disengage after engine starts
The starter on my '87 f150 wont stop cranking the engine. Even with the keys out of the ignition it'll keep turning over. Then when the key is turned to the start position, the engine starts and revs up but the starter continues to crank the engine at a high RPM. Had to disconnect the battery cable to stop it. Not sure what's going on. Mechanically, I'm just a novice. But love being a DIY'er when it comes to working on cars. I'm thinking maybe the ignition switch or starter solenoid. Any suggestions on what the problem might be? Don't really want to take it in if I can fix it myself.
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Use a test light.
Check the little wire at the fender mounted solenoid. It should get power when you turn the key to start. it should not get power at any other time.
If it's getting power when it shouldn't the problem will be in the wire from the ignition switch on the column or more likely the ignition switch itself. The ignition switch is bolted to the bottom of the column. Lie on the floor with your head jammed against the brake pedal and look up.
If it's getting power when you turn the key and not getting power when the key isn't at start then the ignition switch circuit is ok that far and the problem will be with the fender mounted solenoid (sticking - replace) or the bendix gear (starter drive gear) on the starter itself is sticking (replace starter - recommended- or replace bendix gear and/or starter solenoid)
Check the little wire at the fender mounted solenoid. It should get power when you turn the key to start. it should not get power at any other time.
If it's getting power when it shouldn't the problem will be in the wire from the ignition switch on the column or more likely the ignition switch itself. The ignition switch is bolted to the bottom of the column. Lie on the floor with your head jammed against the brake pedal and look up.
If it's getting power when you turn the key and not getting power when the key isn't at start then the ignition switch circuit is ok that far and the problem will be with the fender mounted solenoid (sticking - replace) or the bendix gear (starter drive gear) on the starter itself is sticking (replace starter - recommended- or replace bendix gear and/or starter solenoid)
#3
JrW - I'm having the exact same issue right now. I've already replaced the solenoid and it's still happening. Were you able to get yours resolved? If so, was it the starter switch or the starter?
Thanks,
David (aka Bean Counter)
Thanks,
David (aka Bean Counter)
#5
91 F150 XLT 2WD 5.0 E40D
I posted the info below on similar post, but was hoping you found what the problem was?
My 91 F150 302 auto has an intermittent starter staying engaged once I go to start it, it will stay engaged once the engine starts/runs, also stays engaged once I turn off the key (even pulling it out). So I would jump out of the truck, grab my hammer (only because it is in reach each time), open the hood and tap the fender mounted solenoid which in turn will immediately stop the starter from continuous cranking. I can usually go inside the truck and start it back up without it happening again. This happens every 2 or 3 times I go to start it. I've read some people say it's because of the bolts on the starter are not shimmed correctly, and others say the back of the solenoid on the inner fender is not grounded to the fender. I have yet to go out and try cleaning the back of the solenoid to fender for a better ground, but has anyone else had this issue? Yes, tapped the solenoid with hammer lightly stopped it and can drive on is only a temp fix for now.
My 91 F150 302 auto has an intermittent starter staying engaged once I go to start it, it will stay engaged once the engine starts/runs, also stays engaged once I turn off the key (even pulling it out). So I would jump out of the truck, grab my hammer (only because it is in reach each time), open the hood and tap the fender mounted solenoid which in turn will immediately stop the starter from continuous cranking. I can usually go inside the truck and start it back up without it happening again. This happens every 2 or 3 times I go to start it. I've read some people say it's because of the bolts on the starter are not shimmed correctly, and others say the back of the solenoid on the inner fender is not grounded to the fender. I have yet to go out and try cleaning the back of the solenoid to fender for a better ground, but has anyone else had this issue? Yes, tapped the solenoid with hammer lightly stopped it and can drive on is only a temp fix for now.
#6
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I posted the info below on similar post, but was hoping you found what the problem was?
My 91 F150 302 auto has an intermittent starter staying engaged once I go to start it, it will stay engaged once the engine starts/runs, also stays engaged once I turn off the key (even pulling it out). So I would jump out of the truck, grab my hammer (only because it is in reach each time), open the hood and tap the fender mounted solenoid which in turn will immediately stop the starter from continuous cranking. I can usually go inside the truck and start it back up without it happening again. This happens every 2 or 3 times I go to start it. I've read some people say it's because of the bolts on the starter are not shimmed correctly, and others say the back of the solenoid on the inner fender is not grounded to the fender. I have yet to go out and try cleaning the back of the solenoid to fender for a better ground, but has anyone else had this issue? Yes, tapped the solenoid with hammer lightly stopped it and can drive on is only a temp fix for now.
My 91 F150 302 auto has an intermittent starter staying engaged once I go to start it, it will stay engaged once the engine starts/runs, also stays engaged once I turn off the key (even pulling it out). So I would jump out of the truck, grab my hammer (only because it is in reach each time), open the hood and tap the fender mounted solenoid which in turn will immediately stop the starter from continuous cranking. I can usually go inside the truck and start it back up without it happening again. This happens every 2 or 3 times I go to start it. I've read some people say it's because of the bolts on the starter are not shimmed correctly, and others say the back of the solenoid on the inner fender is not grounded to the fender. I have yet to go out and try cleaning the back of the solenoid to fender for a better ground, but has anyone else had this issue? Yes, tapped the solenoid with hammer lightly stopped it and can drive on is only a temp fix for now.
#7
91 F150 XLT 2WD 5.0 E40D
Yes Chris, I agree, just sucks because it is a new one. Will try another motorcraft solenoid and post results on here, I have to get a new one this week. Thanks for the reply.
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#8
Hey Chris I had all the problems you had. I replaced the starter, ignition switch, and solenoid. It still gave me problems. I took everything off and put it back on. I kept my battery cable semi-loose so I could get it off in a hurry. While moving wires behind the battery I saw a small ground wire from the negative battery cable. It was grounded to the inner fender. Problem was it had a double nut on it . The ground wire was tight to the nut under it but the fender bolt itself was loose. I tightened it and have not had more problems. P.S. I still have my fingers crossed. Good Luck Rod
#9
Senior Member
If you ever have a solenoid suddenly stick on you and the starter keeps cranking, hit on the solenoid, obviously if you wasn't expecting it you wouldn't have anything handy. So just use your hand, use the side of your hand like a karate chop or series of karate chops. This has always worked for me. Just an FYI.
#10
I just went through all this with my 1988 F-150 4.9 5 spd.
First I replaced the starter solenoid which is located on the passenger side fender. It did not fix the problem.
Then I replaced the starter, this did not fix the problem either.
My problem lied in the ignition switch itself, not the key tumbler. So I replaced the ignition switch and all is good.
On a side note, these year Fords, 87-96, are prone to have a stiff key actuation which can lead to the ignition sticking on. I have a non-tilt wheel. Take the steering wheel off, you need a puller, $20 from AutoZone, rent or buy. Then remove the blinker assembly, just pull it off and let it hang on the wires. Then remove the key tumbler. Spray brake clean in the key tumbler (out side the truck). Spray brake clean around the ignition switch rod going from the key switch tumbler to the ignition switch. Make sure all that is not tough to move and lubed up. My ignition switch was on top of the steering column. Take off the two panels left and right of the steering column and remove two blots that hold the steering column in place. Drop the steering column down so you have access to the ignition switch. Keep in mind, the ignition switch has slotted holes in it. You must install the new one in the same location or you will have trouble starting, running, etc. Mark the old one before you loosen it. There are awesome videos on YouTube for trouble shooting the starter solenoid, and the starter. Your key should snap back after you let it go once the truck has started. Also, keep your key chain lite or it will not snap back. I found no videos on a non-tilt steering column. That's why I am going into detail here about it.
First I replaced the starter solenoid which is located on the passenger side fender. It did not fix the problem.
Then I replaced the starter, this did not fix the problem either.
My problem lied in the ignition switch itself, not the key tumbler. So I replaced the ignition switch and all is good.
On a side note, these year Fords, 87-96, are prone to have a stiff key actuation which can lead to the ignition sticking on. I have a non-tilt wheel. Take the steering wheel off, you need a puller, $20 from AutoZone, rent or buy. Then remove the blinker assembly, just pull it off and let it hang on the wires. Then remove the key tumbler. Spray brake clean in the key tumbler (out side the truck). Spray brake clean around the ignition switch rod going from the key switch tumbler to the ignition switch. Make sure all that is not tough to move and lubed up. My ignition switch was on top of the steering column. Take off the two panels left and right of the steering column and remove two blots that hold the steering column in place. Drop the steering column down so you have access to the ignition switch. Keep in mind, the ignition switch has slotted holes in it. You must install the new one in the same location or you will have trouble starting, running, etc. Mark the old one before you loosen it. There are awesome videos on YouTube for trouble shooting the starter solenoid, and the starter. Your key should snap back after you let it go once the truck has started. Also, keep your key chain lite or it will not snap back. I found no videos on a non-tilt steering column. That's why I am going into detail here about it.
Last edited by kevintii; 12-27-2016 at 05:28 PM.