JustThatGuy

Alright, so, warrantied out the solenoid, still same no start conditions, and yes I have power at the Starter and yes I have power on the post toward the front of the car and none on the other, but when the key is in start I get nothing from the live post to the other. The Solenoid is new, got it Today and its BWD. Still have 17-22V coming fom the 14 gauge wire, and the "white box" Ignition safety isnt a week old and it has the same problem with the original motocraft. Now is there a remote chance it could be the Ignition Control Module? also hers my wiring diagram that I've been using:

88xlt

The ignition control module is part of the spark firing part of the engine, and has nothing to do with the starter spinning the engine over.

Just a thought here, are you sure all the wires are connected to the right place on the fender mounted solenoid? The only wire that should be hooked on the one side is the smaller gauge wire that goes down to the starter. All the other wires should be hooked on the other nut on the fender mounted solenoid. Again, just a thought of something to check.

JustThatGuy

Gonna be honest, i have 5 wires going to that solenoid, 2 that are in a rubber insulated Y, and 2 loose that go on the inactive post of the solenoid. Then the the 14 gauge (the smallest) which goes to the "S" post on the solenoid, and is to large to fit on the "I" post at the bottom of the solenoid, so yes, it is hooked up right as this is the third one through the car. Its hooked up the same as the last one, and the one that came on the truck.

Edit: the one that came on the truck was not a Ford OEM part, it seems this may have been an on going problem for the police auto techs as well.

cts2433

Here is the power flow:


Start at the source and check for voltage coming out of the ignition switch on the red/light blue wire. It leaves the ignition switch and travels through the clutch pedal position switch (standard) or clutch pedal position jumper (automatic), then on through connector C202 and C103 (bulkhead connectors at firewall) and then to transmission range sensor and from there on to the starter solenoid. The wire color changes coming out of the clutch pedal position jumper (red/light blue in and white pink out) but changes back to red/light blue coming out of the trans range sensor on to the starter solenoid.

I would assume your truck is an automatic, no? Have you tried to crank it in neutral? If you have voltage coming out of the ign switch then check it at the trans range sensor on the red/light blue and also the white/pink.

A last resort is to run an overlay from the ign switch to starter relay.

JustThatGuy

New development! I now have no power to the solenoid. Originally I had that weird 22-18V reading, now I have no volts. I took the solenoid out to clean all the contacts on the wires, and after re-installation, I got my voltmeter and and to my surprise I have 0 volts now! I have no power coming in from the switch, and to answer your question, yes I tried the NSS Shift P-1 , then turn key in N, or P. I have no click, because I have no power! So this is a good step forward... I think? I do however have power to the starter from the battery. So I know that connection intact. Also, question: is it possible power isnt going from the ignition because the computers in the car are encountering some sort of error, like a say a cam sensor mis-read? or something of the like? Ive seen that in newer cars, where a cam senor is dead, or off and the computer doesnt allow the car to start, I dont think the computer on the Bronco is capable of this, but I could be underestimating it. Also for future refernce (sorry for not saying this before), but Its a 5.8L, E4OD, 4WD manual Tcase XL model Bronco.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

I'd start by seeing if you have power coming out of the ignition switch. If you don't, well you start there.
If you do, you've got the diagram, follow the wires and test at all the points to find where the interruption is.
I still haven't figured out how you're getting 17-22 volts out a 12 volt circuit, so I don't know if that testing method is giving you an accurate reflection of what's going on if you follow me there.
Maybe just an old fashioned test light would tell you what you need to know

cts2433

It sounds like you are having "ghost" or stray voltage on the starter relay wire. Are you testing the relay wire with it disconnected or connected to the solenoid? I have chased my tail due in the past due to stray voltage and it will run you in circles. All it takes is one 12v energized wire laying against the starter relay wire for the relay wire to become a capacitive coupler similar to a capacitor. You need a test light like Chris said and test the circuit at the source. A good El Chepo would do just fine. A test light is my best friend when tracing wiring problems. I don't believe this is your problem, as you have used 3 different meters, but a meter with a weak battery will sometimes cause the internal reference voltage to become skewed and, as a result, your voltage readings will be inaccurate (usually high).

JustThatGuy

Chris_1: thats the plan, and I have a test light somewhere... Eh, I'll find it.
cts2433: Disconnected. And nope, one is out of the package new, the other brand new triple As 2 weeks old, and the last has good batteries as it reads the same 12.78V across batt terminals, same as the other two.

I'l post to this after Sat, or Sun pass, and hopefully I'll have had time to go through the system.

Edit: still haven't had time. Gonna try for when next possible.

JustThatGuy

Aiming for Tuesday or Wednesday, and with some luck I'll actually get around to it.

JustThatGuy

So this new development is a real stumper. I had a friend turn the key while the hood was open, and heard the actuating of relays, nice loud clicks. After some investigating I discovered it to be two relays, both are shown in this picture:


The real bizarre thing, is in the manual the bottom right relay is for trailer lights, the other, I havent a clue. It shouldnt be there, no document I have looked at has, or lists, a relay there. So I know something is happening that shouldnt but after this I dont even know where to start. I need some guidance here, I am lost as to why these relays are actuating, and how this affects the car starting. Also I have a fog lamp relay, but no foglamps, and I have a 50 amp fuse 3rd up in the middle column that is live at all times, and it is in use as there is a voltage drop when the car is running vs off, but removing changes nothing how the car runs, but thats for another day. Just a weird thing I noticed. Also What wire colors are the fog lamp relays wires? I think this may be related to the tail and reverse flshers for the solid state flasher as it clicks when the flashers are on. Id like to disconnect it and repurpose it for actual fog lamps. But I digress, I should probably focus on the task at hand. Still it be nice to know.