Aford1995

I have a 1995 f150 302, it is 4x4. I've done an extensive rebuild on it. The issue I'm running into now is my fuel pump isn't priming. The top of the pump(electrical harness), fuel pump it's self and the fuel float level sender have been replaced. Harness is all in the right places to the pump assembly. I've grounded the radiator support, cab and fuel tank to the frame. Starter and starter silinoid are both new, grounded. When I turn the key on there is no click for the silinoid turning on like it used to. The truck has been extensivly rebuilt so it's been a year since it's run. My question is where do I go next? I have been into the instrument cluster and installed a rebuilt steering column. Could there be something behind the cluster I missed? Why wouldn't the pump or silinoid fire when I turn the key on? Yet the engine cranks over when I jump the starter silinoid terminals. Thanks in advance!

Aford1995

Update. Have 12.2 v at the starter solinoid. Double checked the wires behind dash everything looks ok and connected. Harness going into the fuel pump has been checked and everything is square. Still not even attempting to crank when I turn the key. But jumping the terminals works fuel pump is still not engaging. Please help I'm stuck and not sure how to proceed.

fomoco998

Check ignition switch and it's wiring on bottom of your column .

Aford1995

That switch in the lock cylinder was loose so I secured it. Is there only one of those plastic peices on the lock cylinder? It now cranks from the key, but only when I have the dash shift indicator to reverse I've checked the ignition module and it is not broken little slider is working. Think the fuel pump might be the pcm/ecm going bad. Still working on it. Thanks for the response

fomoco998

The ignition switch is at bottom of the column and is adjustable. It connects by a rod from lock cylinder. The tranny shift cable goes to neutral safety switch on transmision. Indicator on instrument panel is adjustable. Key on powers a relay under hood for fuel pump. There is the fuse, relay and inertia switch that needs checked before looking at pcm/ecm for fuel pump issue. Start at the ignition switch testing the system for power . A wiring diagram is your best friend.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

If you have dual tanks, there is also the dash switch (f/r selector) in that fuel pump circuit. If it's not plugged in, or faulty, pump won't run.

Aford1995

I have two issues going now, first the running lights are on when ever the battery is connected, all the other functions of the lights work properly (ie hazards, blinkers, and reverse) but when I press the brake they don't turn on. Second is the fuel pump, I've checked the relay and fuzes, the inertia switch hasn't been tripped. I replaced the brake light sensor today and didn't change what was going on with the lights. I guess next would be make sure there is power coming from the inertia switch after to the pump?

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Also check that you reinstalled the ground wires to the pass. fender beside the battery and the rad saddle by the washer bottle. Disconnecting one of those 2 stops the pump from running. Not sure which one.
There's at least 2 wires to each one of those ground points. Another small ground wire at the driver's hood hinge area.
A shot in the dark but if you did an extensive rebuild, one of those may have been missed.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Also check that you reinstalled the ground wires to the pass. fender beside the battery and the rad saddle by the washer bottle. Disconnecting one of those 2 stops the pump from running. Not sure which one.
There's at least 2 wires to each one of those ground points. Another small ground wire at the driver's hood hinge area.
A shot in the dark but if you did an extensive rebuild, one of those may have been missed.