Fuel Pump 92 F-150 4.9L 300ci Inline-6
02-20-2013, 05:52 PM
#21
November 2011 TOTM Winner
If you have low volts at the pump connector (with a test light you actually don't know how many volts are there) Then you are dropping volts somewhere, test lights arent very good for troubleshooting this problem. You need a schematic and a volt meter and start out at the pump connector and work you way forward until you find good volts.
I don't have a schematic for a 92 single tank configuration.
If I were gonna take a shot in the dark, I would guess the C203 connector is dirty, that's the big round one on the firewall, power goes in there from the relay, then back out of it from the I switch. Again, Im guessing based on older systems, which are pretty much the same through different years.
I don't have a schematic for a 92 single tank configuration.
If I were gonna take a shot in the dark, I would guess the C203 connector is dirty, that's the big round one on the firewall, power goes in there from the relay, then back out of it from the I switch. Again, Im guessing based on older systems, which are pretty much the same through different years.
Last edited by 5Rangers; 02-20-2013 at 05:57 PM.
02-20-2013, 06:01 PM
#22
C203? I'm not sure what ur talkin about on that. Can u describe it better? Cuz the only thing I can see is the solonoid that's on the firewall that all kinds of sh*t plugs into. I'm not sure what ur talkin about on a C203
02-20-2013, 06:05 PM
#23
Also another question. I did not have the float sensor connected when I tested it with the makeshift wires and battery terminals. And it also wasn't connected to the gas tank when it was tested and working. It was given a direct load from +/- wires and turned on. So now that at doesn't have a direct load going to it, and had the float sensor connected, does it have to have gas to trip the float sensor and be under pressure with the fuel lines to activate?
02-20-2013, 07:20 PM
#26
I just tested it again. It's in the tank now, and I still haven't mounted the tank yet, but I ran +/- wires "Hotwire" if u will, from the posts on the pump, and touched the battery with them and the pump fired up!
02-20-2013, 07:26 PM
#28
I halfass hotwired the fuel pump. I ran my own wires from the +/- on the fuel pump, and then touched my battery with them. The pump fired right up when I did. But I noticed where I have the positive wire hooked up at, isn't on the post that the test light turns on with the wire harness. That's kinda confusing. Pretty sure that's the float indicator for my gas gauge and it's the only one that's showing it has juice. So the positive wire that feeds the pump on the wire harness isn't hot.
02-20-2013, 07:36 PM
#29
I'm thinking the only active wire on the wire harness is the indicator for the gas gauge cuz my gas gauge on my dash resets and reads accurately on empty when it's connected, but when I unplug it, it doesn't work. The wire harness is a 4 prong harness, with 4 female slots. Lets see if I can explain this properly......
The fuel sending unit has 4 male posts on it, 1 is obviously the + and 1 is the -. The other 2, 1 is for the gas gauge reading from the floater, and when I seen the pump when it was out of the tank, there were no wires connected to the other post, so I don't think it's used. Well when I checked the female ends on the wire harness the slot that connects the gas gauge is the only "hot" wire. The other 3 did not register any power at all. So after I hotwired the pump, I've established the fact that the pump does in fact work, but I'm guessing normally the wire harness should have 2 of the 4 slots that should light up a test light?
The fuel sending unit has 4 male posts on it, 1 is obviously the + and 1 is the -. The other 2, 1 is for the gas gauge reading from the floater, and when I seen the pump when it was out of the tank, there were no wires connected to the other post, so I don't think it's used. Well when I checked the female ends on the wire harness the slot that connects the gas gauge is the only "hot" wire. The other 3 did not register any power at all. So after I hotwired the pump, I've established the fact that the pump does in fact work, but I'm guessing normally the wire harness should have 2 of the 4 slots that should light up a test light?