Originally Posted by Shado364
Temp is 48, battery seemed nice and strong in start position, but still getting the rapid clicks. Starter and alternator both new in 2011. In accessory position, idiot lights are all on now, digital odometer is back, ABS light flashes slightly but I don't think I have ABS ::::shrugs:::. Gauges all seem to be resetting, battery gauge stays at 8, radio is back. Bad battery then, no? Quick question if I may. When I jumped the solenoid with the screwdriver I did get a spark although very weak. Does this mean the solenoid is ok, can I rule that out? I wiggled the battery cables, Pos. is clean nice and tight. Neg. is slightly rusty, and twists back and forth....not the cable but the post itself.
It's likely not the solenoid, its likely not the starter, and it's not necessarily the alternator. The alternator might
not be charging the battery, but that's not what's stopping the truck from starting, right now
. You're making some textbook mistakes with this issue. Just because the starter and alternator are three years old, doesn't mean they're working properly either. I've seen brand new ones fail, right out of the box.
Look, I don't want to seem inconsiderate, but you can't do nothing, and expect different results. And the first rule of troubleshooting is, and always will be... DO NOT ASSUME ANYTHING. When troubleshooting anything, you have to go through the steps (like a simple flow chart) and eliminate each and every possible problem in the path, or direction of the process. You can't 100% do that, until you know the battery voltage. You can hope that other small issues together, can be contributing to the problem, but they just might not be.
I told you earlier that your terminals don't necessarily have to be covered with heavy deposits of corrosion to compromise the connections. You recently also said that the negative terminal was "rusty" and loose. Well, that HAS to be fixed. As I suggested earlier, remove BOTH terminals, and clean the posts and the terminals. Use one of those battery terminal brushes and clean both the terminals and the posts, until they're shiny. I've worked on automobiles and equipment for over 30 years and many times, charging systems were affected by terminals that appeared to be ok, and were corrected with a sixty second cleaning with a simple terminal brush.
After cleaning the terminals and posts, you then reinstall them, and they have to be TIGHT. You don't need to torque them down to hundreds of ft/lb, but they certainly can't "twist back and forth" as you described above. They MUST be tight. Usually a 7/16th wrench (might be metric) or so, is more than enough to correct this. Invest $4 in a brush, and throw it in the glove box when you're done. You may only use it once a year, but it's well worth it. Here's a WalMart link to one:
Also, invest in a $10 multimeter, and throw it too in the glovebox when you're done. You'll get miles of use from it, it's an investment. Here's a WalMart link to one:
Not knowing what region you're in, I intentionally sourced both of these items at Walmart, we all know there's one of them in nearly every town. But you can also find them at any of the regional chain auto parts stores (AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Advance, etc) for about the same costs. As long as you have an older vehicle, expect to spend a few bucks to maintain it. Newer vehicles also need maintenance, but not as much, until they get a few miles on them. Everything we've mentioned in this thread, is very basic automotive electrical maintenance and troubleshooting.
It's very possible that just maybe, your truck might
start, if you clean those terminals and insure they're tight. But that doesn't mean you're done. That's am old battery, that may very well also need to be replaced. And be sure to get that alternator, and entire charging system checked ASAP. That may have contributed to the death of the battery.
Let's recap with some simple bullet points, using the methods I described above, and in my earlier post:
- remove and clean the terminals
- reinstall them, snugly
- check battery voltage with truck not running
- once you get it running, check the voltage again
Remember - doing nothing, will NEVER fix the problem.
After going back and reviewing this reply... can you tell it's Sunday morning, and I have nothing else to do?