deafoneinflorida

when I checked the spark while the truck was in the no start condition I used a screwdriver in the coil wire, the spark was kinda orange. Could the coil be weak and flooding the engine to stall and too weak to restart? when this happened the other day I had to crank it over several times before it started. when it did start it ran rough and I could smell gas after a few minutes it ran smooth and the smell went away and I was able to drive the 9 miles home. Working 9am to 9pm for the next couple days and wont be able to check things out like I want will have Tuesday off to work on it. I do appreciate all your help.

5Rangers

Your going to want to go down one one path or the other. Either fuel or ignition. The fuel system is the weak link on these trucks. I would suggest running the test I have explained and verify your fuel system is functioning as advertised. If it is, then we can run through ignition, there is a test procedure for the coil but I don't have it in front of me.

deafoneinflorida

today I cleaned my EGR valve because I kept getting code 33. Changed dist.cap because when I pulled the coil wire off the post in the cap came with it, changed rotor button cause I was there. when I tried to retrieve codes again the test light stayed lit, did not flash. I unhooked test light and jumper, truck started but rpm's fluctuated a little then settled on 700. Another time I started the truck I saw a spark at the starter relay the positive post got hot while truck was running. Is relay bad or is something else shorting it out. wires did not get hot, pos post on bat did not get hot just the relay.

5Rangers

I would say your starter relay is internally shorted, providing a direct short from the battery + to ground via the relay case. Your relay there served out its last remaining moments as a large resistor for a battery with 760cca. I can imagine it did turn pretty white as the magic electrical smoke was released just like its soul leaving its metal body.

deafoneinflorida

ok now truck wont start at all, good in a way, not trying to find intermitent problem. I changed the starter solenoid and pos cable to bat cleaned ground wire and replaced bat terminal end. Truck started warmed up and was able to get codes, got 11,11,1,11,11. when trying to do koer test it stalled and hasnt started since. will start with starting fluid. Can hear back pump kick on and high press pump kick on but no fuel at rail unhooked fuel filter and turned key on but nothing came out of line. whats next? dont have volt meter just test lite and not much help to turn key while I test things. I can go get a digital vm if needed just need the truck to run.

5Rangers

Is there a single tank or dual tanks?

This is the test connector by the airbox. Putting a ground on pin A will cause the fuel pump relay to close for testing purposes only. The pumps should activate with the key switch on.


Before the filter is the high pressure pump. Before the HP pump is the DFR, (dual function reservoir - dual tanks) or the SFR (single function reservoir- single tank ). Take the bigger line off the back side of the DFR/SFR and check for fuel pumping out when you ground the pin and turn on the key. The smaller fuel line is the return line from the injector rail.

The in tank pump provides a volume of fuel to the DFR/SFR to keep the HP pump with a steady supply. The HP pump brings the pressure up to a level the injection system can use.


This is a print for an 89 with dual tanks. Yours will be similar, the only difference is if you have a single tank configuration.


If you have no fuel flow before the DFR/SFR, you are going to need a digital VOM for further troubleshooting.

WARNINGS:

Make sure you have fuel in the tank being tested, not to much in case you need to drop tank. The in tank pumps do not like to be ran dry. This is the quickest way to destroy one. Also, when testing the in tanks with fuel lines disconnected and you are not sure of output, your going to want to disconnect the power off the HP pump so you don't run it dry either, otherwise that one will be destroyed as well. These pumps depend on fuel for cooling and lubrication.

As a warning: keep the power wire from the HP pump away from structure and wrap it with tape. This lead will be energized during testing, sparks and fuel do not have happy results.

deafoneinflorida

I disconnected the supply line from back tank from the DFR and fuel cam out. I did not have the key on and the bat is disconnected as well. After fuel quit coming out I removed the DFR from the truck. I took the top off and pushed on diaphram it went down with a little force but did not pop back up. I know up is for the front tank and down is for rear tank. could the DFR be bad not letting the fuel from the rear tank pass through? I did not take the reservoir cup off because I don't have a new filter and "O" ring to put back in. It got dark out so I called it a day. On a good point my Ranger got a quarter tank of gas out of the deal.

5Rangers

Fuel came out because of residual and siphoning.


If you have dual tanks and the same thing is happening with both tanks then it is not likely although possible that the problem is associated with any one tank but rather something in common with both tanks.

If this is the case then I go back to my original post which to check fuel pressure at the rail.

If just one tank is causing problems.

The in tank pump should pump out 6oz of fuel in 5 seconds. You should also check for volts and ground at the pump connector. There should be a good ground present and volts should be at or near battery voltage.

5Rangers

In case you didn't notice im trying to bring you through troubleshooting your fuel system methodically. If you go and do things like pull you DFR and tear it apart, and start pushing and pulling on things you could end up inducing more problems into your truck, thereby complicating things and making it harder to get to a fix.

I asked you to pull the lines off the back of the DFR and check intank pump output with the truck powered using the test plug, and check for volts and ground at your connectors.

Additionally you have not told me what the status is with regards total your front and rear tanks. Is this problem with both tanks.

Now you have pulled apart the DFR the situation is now complicated.

The way to test the DFR is to pull the supply lines off the front. Put catch jar for fuel, un power the frame rail pump, use the test point and activate the pumps in each tank and check for output at the front of the DFR. You can identify output amount and crossfilling problems by doing this.

deafoneinflorida

working crazy schedule. After taking the DFR apart I got another one from the junkyard. $5. when I opened that one to compare with mine I noticed that the valves in the doner DFR moved pretty easiely I also noticed that the rear tank supply O ring was closed off in mine. I opened the bottom of both and niether had a filter so put new O ring in doner and reasembled the top put on truck and cycled the key a few times and it started right up. Then after running for maybe a mile truck had no power when pressing gas peddle, sluggish drove home popped the hood and the passenger manifold was glowing. adjusted timing and took a ride in it today and had good throttle response and exhaust didnt feel any hotter than the drivers side will check tonight to see if either are glowing. Thank you for your help and patience it was really appreciated