H2smokin

my voltage regulator went belly up on my truck. I purchased another one for it but the larger plug does not fit. The new alternators plug is shallower then what the male plug went into in the original and it only locks in part way. Now I'm reading about 2g versus 3G and the fire issues with 2g. What gives? Have they improved the newer reman alternators? Should I try to take it back and get something else. The replacement alternator has the cooling fins on the outside like the original. What would I need to get if I can return it ? and if not is there an easy fix for what I now have in the truck, thanks

joshtowal

You probably got the wrong alternator. Go on their website and pull up the alternators for your truck and see if the part number matches.

H2smokin

I went to two different part stores and checked everything we could. At this point I'm pulling alternator and taking it back on Friday. I'm going to do the upgrade and get either a 95 or 130 amp setup 3G alternator. Have all the wiring,fuse, etc. on the way. Should be here Friday. I just need to read up on it more. Not sure yet if I need either a 95 or 96 alternator with the 1 plug setup? I understand at this point I think on how to wire things I hope. If anyone has actual pics of their setup it would be nice especially close ups, thanks

fltdriver

I can get pics of mine up if you need them, it's very simple to do, took maybe 30-45 mins. Go with 130, I was asking the same question earlier and am so glad I was talked into the 130. Plenty of juice, never have power fades even with blower on high, efan on high, headlights on, stereo cranked, heated seat cover and heated coffee mug plugged in. Go big or go home I guess is what I'm saying. I got the TYC 130 from rockauto for $101 less my 5% discount plus shipping, so like maybe $110. I used a cable I got at auto zone (4 gauge 5ft of some kind) had to cut away the plastic a bit on the alt to get the huge end to fit, cut that and added a 150amp fuse, then used the old line I took out to beef up the battery>ground. There will be a ?yellow? wire that will need to be spliced into the power cable, it comes off of the connector and runs a foot or so then taps into the factory power wire, keep that in mind and plan for it when you are choosing where to put the fuse, I didn't and had to strip a little insulation and solder it after everything else was hooked up-PITA.

H2smokin

Thanks flt driver, I'll take whatever pics you can post. I ordered up some cable already though it's 6gauge I believe, also 1of those new "d" plugs (smaller of the 2) and a 150 amp fuse as well. I plan on picking up alternator tomorrow and just gonna get the 130 as well. The truck is a basic xl so no accessories but I'll have the option at least now for them. Wouldn't mind some extra lights up front and in the bed area as well. Thanks

fltdriver

Sorry don't check this subforum too often, did you get it in or are you still needing pics, like I said it's very simple. Plug the connector into the new one, attach the power wire, will have to splice the yellow wire into the power, install fuse somewhere between alt and (whatever that stupid thing above the battery is called-brain farting right now), be sure to upgrade both the wire going to the + on battery and the - going to the body ground. I just used the old power wire from the alt to "beef" up the ground (ran it from - to body ground in addition to the one already there).

H2smokin

ThanIs flt driver. It's done and running fine so far. I'm now on to dropping rear tank and replacing it. Oh joy, thanks again