89 5.0 dies and will not restart until key is cycled off
02-13-2015, 01:11 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
89 5.0 dies and will not restart until key is cycled off
Hoping some one can help the old farmer out. Stalls and will not restart without shutting completely off, then might run two days or two minutes.
Self test shows 33 ( egr ) and 25 ??. Haynes manual seems pretty much inapplicable for wiring color codes etc. Mustang codes say 25 is MAF but there is not a mass flow device on this truck. I don't want to give it up but I'm getting tired of being stranded by it. Runs great when it runs.
Self test shows 33 ( egr ) and 25 ??. Haynes manual seems pretty much inapplicable for wiring color codes etc. Mustang codes say 25 is MAF but there is not a mass flow device on this truck. I don't want to give it up but I'm getting tired of being stranded by it. Runs great when it runs.
02-13-2015, 02:23 PM
#2
Senior Member
Knowing the history on this vintage of Ford trucks, I would guess one of the ignition parts is dying. Have you checked for spark when the engine quits and won't restart?
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FarmerJohn (02-13-2015)
02-13-2015, 02:25 PM
#3
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
25
Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) – KS
from http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/Could be many things, etc sensor, a failing ignition coil, or pip sensor going bad are on the top of the common problems list for these trucks. You could also have issues with fuel pressure (pump shutting off then not turning on until you cycle the key).
This gets tricky to not just throw parts at it. You need to eliminate fuel problem with a pressure gauge (available at auto parts stores as a loaner tool). The gauge also comes with a multimeter (from oreillys anyway) that will also allow you to test the other components if you don't already own one.
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FarmerJohn (02-13-2015)
02-13-2015, 03:13 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Did not check for spark but checked EEC relay to be sure of voltage to the system.
25
Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) – KS
from http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/Could be many things, etc sensor, a failing ignition coil, or pip sensor going bad are on the top of the common problems list for these trucks. You could also have issues with fuel pressure (pump shutting off then not turning on until you cycle the key).
This gets tricky to not just throw parts at it. You need to eliminate fuel problem with a pressure gauge (available at auto parts stores as a loaner tool). The gauge also comes with a multimeter (from oreillys anyway) that will also allow you to test the other components if you don't already own one.
I'll book mark your codes, for future reference.
Installed a fuel pressure gauge, after changing the tank and booster fuel pump. Makes me think more electrical than fuel. I also changed the ICM after being left alongside the road one hot day. It started after it cooled down and I made it home. After some reading here and advice from a Ford guy I changed the module.
I was kinda thinking the pip also but why would shutting the key off reset it? I even priced a new distributor, just in case. Easier than replacing the pip I hear.
Many thanks to you both for your thoughts.
02-13-2015, 05:25 PM
#5
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
If you have a vacuum gauge you should also rule out vacuum leaks in the small vac lines-notorious for cracking. If you don't have a vac gauge I recommend picking one up as they are very handy, use them for bleeding brakes, testing for leaks, pulling engine vac to diagnose like 8 different internal problems, changing fluids, etc... I got one from amazon for $35 and it paid for itself in the first week (changed brake fluid on our 4 vehicles).
Note that ignition coil and ICM (ignition control module) are two different things. The coil and pip both cause random shut downs, as does the engine temp sensor (not the dummy gauge sender but the computer's sensor). I think I called it an ETC in my previous post, mistake.
Note that ignition coil and ICM (ignition control module) are two different things. The coil and pip both cause random shut downs, as does the engine temp sensor (not the dummy gauge sender but the computer's sensor). I think I called it an ETC in my previous post, mistake.
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FarmerJohn (02-13-2015)
02-13-2015, 05:49 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
If you have a vacuum gauge you should also rule out vacuum leaks in the small vac lines-notorious for cracking. If you don't have a vac gauge I recommend picking one up as they are very handy, use them for bleeding brakes, testing for leaks, pulling engine vac to diagnose like 8 different internal problems, changing fluids, etc... I got one from amazon for $35 and it paid for itself in the first week (changed brake fluid on our 4 vehicles).
Note that ignition coil and ICM (ignition control module) are two different things. The coil and pip both cause random shut downs, as does the engine temp sensor (not the dummy gauge sender but the computer's sensor). I think I called it an ETC in my previous post, mistake.
Note that ignition coil and ICM (ignition control module) are two different things. The coil and pip both cause random shut downs, as does the engine temp sensor (not the dummy gauge sender but the computer's sensor). I think I called it an ETC in my previous post, mistake.
The last thing I did before the problem stopped for a while is, clean the connector that go's to the primary on the coil. that, is the pip signal, if I understand it correctly. There's a cast MSD distributor on amazon that maybe the answer to my problem.
Yeah, got a vacuum hand pump and gauge. Replaced or repaired many small hard plastic lines, right behind the plenum but still get that 33 trouble code. I'll test the egr KOEO, next.
Thanks again. if I wasn't so gun shy I would take it on the road again but would really like to resolve it in the driveway.
02-14-2015, 08:24 AM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
fltdriver, if you're still around, expand on the ect sensor causing problems please. Got it to do, that thing that it does, last night and ran the codes. During engine running I got a code 21, ( engine coolant temp sensor out of range ). Thanks
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02-14-2015, 11:20 AM
#8
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
When the sensor gets wacky and reads something like 2000* it just shuts everything down, it knows it's not that hot/cold and that it is malfunctioning so to let you know it's having issues it'll kill the engine. They built it like a woman, if you don't catch it at the right time it won't tell you what's wrong because "you should know what's wrong" if you really knew your truck/woman.
Always pull codes right when it gives you a problem as sometimes driving for a little bit can read an all good and clear the code.
Always pull codes right when it gives you a problem as sometimes driving for a little bit can read an all good and clear the code.
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FarmerJohn (02-14-2015)
02-14-2015, 11:47 AM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
When the sensor gets wacky and reads something like 2000* it just shuts everything down, it knows it's not that hot/cold and that it is malfunctioning so to let you know it's having issues it'll kill the engine. They built it like a woman, if you don't catch it at the right time it won't tell you what's wrong because "you should know what's wrong" if you really knew your truck/woman.
Always pull codes right when it gives you a problem as sometimes driving for a little bit can read an all good and clear the code.
Always pull codes right when it gives you a problem as sometimes driving for a little bit can read an all good and clear the code.
You the man.
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FarmerJohn (02-25-2015)