WolfgangFox

I've seen most writeups take the A wire from the regulator (ASI Connector) and loop it back to the battery post on the back of the alternator.

I have seen a few posts that just reuse the original voltage regulator connect and don't loop anything back. So they just clip the S, attach it to the stator connector, tie together the 2 B+ wires to the back of the alternator, and voila.

So, what is better to do, loop the A wire back, or just use the original connector to the Volt Reg in tact?

-Pat

fltdriver

I reused the connector, upgraded the battery wire to 2 gauge, I used auto parts store 6ft 2ga battery cable for like $9. I installed a 150amp fuse between the alt and the solenoid on the side of the engine bay using about 4ft of new wire, I spliced in the output sensor wire before the fuse (the one spliced into the factory charge wire from the connector). Used the rest of the new 2ga from solenoid to battery. I took the old charge wire and doubled up the ground from battery to chassis. I didn't loop anything back or tie any of the wires together. It may be different for the 87-91 but my plug connected directly to the new 3g alt. Mine has been in for a year now and not a single problem, it actually breathed some life back into my 7 year old battery- oreilly's said it had a 85% charge before the swap and now it holds right at 90-95%.

WolfgangFox

Thanks! After doing further research, and from all the wiring diagrams I see the 3g alternator asi connector is wired the same. In the 95 mustang I got the alternator out of, the A wire is connected to the starter solenoid, just like my truck is. However, when performing the upgrade, a lot of the aftermarket guys loop the A wire directly to the 12v output on the alternator. I have never seen any discussion as to why.

I'm just going to leave the wiring in tact, instead of hacking it up more, and not loop back the wire.

-Pat

WolfgangFox

I'm just posting a followup for internet research. Alternator went in smooth like buttah. During idle, all accessory off 14.8 volts, and with all accessory on (a/c doesn't work, but blower was running, headlights, and radio) came in at 14.5 volts. There appears to be a surface charge on the battery right now but with engine off, it reads 13.2 volts. I also cleaned off the chassis ground to the battery, installed all new battery terminals, and cleaned up the starter solenoid wiring.

I'll post the model number of the alternator when I get it here (wasn't on receipt, and I don't remember what the guy called it), however I do believe its one of the 3g 95 amp alternators. I could not get the 130amp 3g alternator to fit correctly. I clearanced every single piece that people had commented on. The only thing I can think of is the casing is just a bit larger, and the ear spacing is just a bit wider also. I would have had to drill out the actual bracket hole to get it to fit correctly, but then it was still very difficult to get even the pivot bolt in.

We have a renowned automotive electrical guy here in Johnson City: Boones Creek Starter and Alternator. He stated he has done many 2g to 3g conversions for customers, and if you just want a piece that fits and don't care about the extra 35 amps, get the 95amp version instead of the 130. I couldn't find anything except one comment on the internet that stated the smaller case should fit better, and ***may*** require clearanceing. Well on my 1989 Ford F150 5.8l, no clearanceing was required. It fit right in perfectly. However, if you don't mind grinding down the bracket, and possibly drilling out the hole, the 130 amp should be ok. I am just not able to explain why the alternator wouldn't even fit nicely into the pivot bolt location. It was almost like it was warped.

-Pat