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1995 L6 Troubleshooting a Fuel-Related No Start

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Old 11-13-2016, 02:03 PM
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Default 1995 L6 Troubleshooting a Fuel-Related No Start

Hi all, I have an Eddie Bauer edition 95 F150 single cab short bed with the (awesome) 300 L6 and dual tanks that isn't seeming to put enough fuel to the cylinders to get a start. The engine will turn and turn, but will not even give me a detonation, let alone a start, unless I spike it with starting fluid. That being said, there is no hesitation at all when using starting fluid; the first cylinder that sparks kicks the whole engine over instantly amd gives me a full six cylinder cycle before the fluid burns off and it dies.

My parents got it with 30k on it from the original owner in 99, who only filled the bed with trash and used it for a monthly dumo run. We used it as a chaser vehicle when we would go riding out in the desert, and for light work around the property. Used to haul a 28' drop gate double axel trailer with 6-8k lbs of sand rail, quads, bikes, fuel, and wood through the mountains at high speed (60-70 mph) until the rings gave out and the block lost compression (still ran though, just at 1/20th power). Used that as an excuse to have the dealer drop in a crate motor (and a 9" aftermarket rear end with .410s and pausi.... And a 4" lift... And shortened the exhaust to come out between the rear tire and the flare). This was just in time for me to get my license, and I proceeded to drive it like a corvette until my step brother took it out jumping, stuffed the nose scracked it cracked the radiator and tried to drive it home, which seized the #2 piston in the cylinder. We drug it home, opened up the block, smacked the piston loose with a rubber mallet, reringed it, changed the head gasket, put some lucas oil thickener in it, and she fired right back up. #2 slaps a bit when the oil is low, and fuel milage is sitting at about 12, but she had enough power to haul a 32' enclosed trailer packed with stuff during the move from Temecula, CA to Boise, ID with no problems. Put about 60k miles on it after the seize and had to leave it in Idaho when I moved away. It sat in a field for 8 years (which broke my heart) but I finally got the chance to get it back October '15. Took the 800 some mile trip out there, put what I suspect was 2 cycle fuel in it, borrowed a battery and turned the key for maybe 3 minutes before it reluctantly started. Dug it out of the flora, put tires on it, moved it to a friends property because uhaul thinks I can't tow an f150 with an f250, and had to leave it there until July of this year. It fired right up every time after the initial reluctant start. No hesitation, to spite failed science project looki g spark plugs and a nearly clogged k&n air filter.

Once I got it back, I changed the plugs and wires, cleaned the air filter, replaced the oil amd fuel filters and flushed the oil and coolant. I put a new battery in and hopped in the cab, expecting to have to turn the key several times before it would start. Much to my sadness and bewilderment, I completely used the battery charge and didnt get so much as a putter. Spiked the intake manifold with starting fluid, she turned over until it burnt off and died.

No blown fuses. Fuel pump relay and pcm relay are clicking over and getting power. I am not showing power to either rear pump or through the inertial safety with the key in the run position. Please correct me if I am mistaken, but I should be showing 12 volts through the inertial safety down to whichever pump is selected while the key is on run, right? I get readings from the tank senders, so I know I have a good ground for my testing.

I currently suspect either a) i screwed up reading the diagram and the fuel pump only gets power when you turn the key, b) i somehow fried my pcm in a way that only messes with my fuel pump, c) both pumps are blown, d) blown fuel pressure regulator, or e) unknown variable.

I do not have a pressure tester, nor can I afford one in the near future. I cannot hear the pumps kicking on when I turn the key to run, but all fuses and wires passed inspection with a voltmeter.

What am I missing?!?!?!? Please help me get my truck running again!

Last edited by Keeper151; 11-13-2016 at 02:28 PM. Reason: Posted before complete
Old 11-13-2016, 08:10 PM
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You will only get power at the inertia switch for a second or two every time you cycle the key. You won't get constant power to the pump unless the motor is actually running.
Old 11-13-2016, 09:40 PM
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Thank you Chris1. Any thoughts on why I am getting fuel to the cylinders but it isnt even trying to detonate? I pulled a couple plugs after a few 10-15 second attempts to start and they all reeked of fuel, but not even a putter unless I use starting fluid. I am using brand new plugs and the ignition timing is correct.
Old 11-14-2016, 09:57 AM
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Bad gas ?
Old 11-14-2016, 12:57 PM
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2 gallons fresh from the station...
Old 11-14-2016, 01:03 PM
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I put in 2 gallons from the local gas station before my last attempt. At first I was trying to start it with seafoam in the mix, but I flushed the lines under the theory that I put in too much and it was raising the ignition temp too far. Not getting any better luck after the flush and diluting whatever seafoam may be left :/




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