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1991 F150 Radio - No constant hot?

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Old 10-28-2013, 12:17 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Forge-World-FORD
That's what I'm saying though, it still reads each different. In my experience it displays something different and was impossible to mix up.
Lol in my line of work, I'm always fixing DIY repairs from people mixing it up

I'm just suggesting an easier way to find power. A diagram is always the best solution if you happen to have multiple power wires.
Old 10-28-2013, 12:56 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by sylver91

Lol in my line of work, I'm always fixing DIY repairs from people mixing it up

I'm just suggesting an easier way to find power. A diagram is always the best solution if you happen to have multiple power wires.
Trust me, Ive had to fix plenty of that. The radio that was in my truck when I bought it was vampired to a wire that was very poorly wired into the fuse panel to power something else. Left over cables and wires, from a cb, that weren't any good. And all the hack electrical jobs on the trucks I used to work on.
Old 10-28-2013, 01:18 AM
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First thing I do when I get a new vehicle is rip out all the useless butchered wiring previous owners put in.
Old 10-29-2013, 04:32 PM
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I appreciate the feedback folks. I use a multimeter whenever I test anything really, it's more convenient, and I get more information than I would from simply using a light.

The only indication that there might a wiring or fuse issue is that the dome light does not work, and the cab brake light above the rear window doesn't work either. I'm gonna do some more cross checking.

Originally Posted by sylver91
Any fuse will test 0Ohms, its not supposed to have resistance through it. You need to physically look at it or use a test light.

Here try this.
The fuses look brand new. I'm pretty sure a popped fuse will show O/L or just infinite ohms when tested because the point of the fuse is to break that connection in the first place. Granted, slight contact probably wouldn't allow enough amps to cause further harm, but theoretically, shouldn't fuses test at 0 when good, and nothing when bad?

Thanks for the diagram, I've been trying to find something like that, but I couldn't find anything in my Hanes manual.

Last edited by AlexanderMS; 10-29-2013 at 04:36 PM.
Old 10-30-2013, 06:16 PM
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As usual the solution was almost too simple. Turns out I was just missing a fuse, haha! I apparently mixed up the fuse locations and I didn't even notice one was missing.

All fixed now, and the dome light works too.
Old 10-31-2013, 07:37 AM
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The meter never lies...



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