dmarchenski

(Sorry If I double posted this but I put this up yesterday and it seems to have disappeared so here it is again.)

Greetings from north of the border my friends! I am new to this site and this is my first post so hopefully I get it right.

So I bought my 1987 F150 XLT 4X4 (4spd) about two weeks ago and haven't had any issues with it so far... until now. As soon as I got it I did a full tune up. Changed plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, new battery, sea foamed it, fuel filter, ran a bottle of fuel stabilizer through it, new pvc valve, cleaned the throttle body, oil change, ect, ( all the usual things).

Was running fine up until two days ago when I was driving down the highway doing about 90km/hr in 4th when the truck suddenly lost power, sputtered and died. Tried to start it again and it will turn over but not start.

So I get a nice expensive tow home and start to diagnose the problem. It is not a fuel issue. I can hear the pumps coming on, and fuel is coming out of the fuel filter so I cross that off the list.

Next I check for spark. No spark at all. So I run some tests. Battery is putting out 12V, about 10 when cranking. The solenoid is getting power and putting out power. No visible damage to any of the wiring, and all the grounds look good.

Next I just went ahead and swapped out the coil thinkin that could be the issue. Didn't work. So I preform some more tests on the old and new coils. Both are grounded and having voltage pass through them. Next I take the TFI module off the distributor and check for resistance. Everything still checks out fine. Now I am thinking that the only thing left could be the PIP in the distributor. So instead of taking the dist apart and screwing around I go ahead a get a brand new dist and throw it in.

Now im stoked and thinkin that I finally fixed my truck and go to start it up and.... no spark %$#@%. It still turns over but no start.

Sorry for the long post but im trying to provide every bit of detail that I can. When I say I tested all the components I mean I REALLY tested them. I did both tests from the Haynes manual and from various sources off this site.

Anyone got any suggestions? I am almost at the point of getting it towed to the shop and throwing money at them which I really do not want to do.

One thing that may help is that a day before this happened I degreased the engine and VERY carefully sprayed it off with water. I let it run for 30 minutes after just to make sure any water dried up. In the process im thinking I may have damaged something?

Someone told me it could be the computer... I will try unplugging it to see if spark returns. Does this sounds right? How could I fry the computer? Any help would be appreciated.

Forge-World-FORD

What engine? I didn't see anything about you testing the ICM but I might have missed it. I have a link I usually share for electrical tests on the ignition system but I'm not sure if it would apply properly for you. I'll share the link so you can check it out and see.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_...d_module_1.php

dmarchenski

Thanks for the reply. Its a 300 I-6 engine. Ive tested the ICM (distributor mounted) an it checks out fine. The tests ive preformed are as per a Haynes manual as well as a few I found on this forum. Every component of the ignition passes the tests. Everything has power and is grounded. Im am literally out of ideas. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks again.

Forge-World-FORD

And you're sure It's no spark? No spark would point to an electrical issue.

Forge-World-FORD

From the sputtering and dying it almost sounds like a fuel issue. Have you pulled fuel pressure? Pulled codes?

dmarchenski

Thanks for the replies guys. Definetly not a fuel issue. 110% sure there is no spark. Tried to pull the codes but with no luck.

dmarchenski

Mabye a fried computer? Can a computer die like that when driving? It seems like the most likely option at this point.

southernyankey1

Sounds like a dying ECM. Mine did that ...run fine then just shutoff(always in heavy traffic! lol) There are no codes for that..If all the Engine management gizmos are giving proper voltage then it is most likely the ecm. It's located under the driver side kick panel and if you pull it out and open the cover you might see a burnt resistor if you're lucky. Find a ECM remanufacturer for the best replacement. There is a calibration code on the door jamb or if that is gone have your local Ford Parts Guy run the Vin and get it for you. It MUST be the same as there are like 8-10 different ECM's for every year of the obd1 trucks and they won't work correctly in most cases on different setups.

dmarchenski

Thanks for the advice. I have the day off work on Wednsdy and will be looking into it. Ill let ya know how it goes.

dmarchenski

Sorry just to clear things up the ECM is the computer, right?. Electronic Control Module? I already tried pulling the computer out and checking for spark with it out. (someone told me to try it). Is a vehicle even able to spark without the comp plugged in? I also visually inspected it and all the parts dont have any visible damage. Perhaps the ECM relay under the hood could be at fault?