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Bed Removal, Tank replacement

Old 03-15-2013, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Rnlcomp
Considering the fact you live in the rust belt I would not even attempt to remove the nuts from below, I would get a nice and sharp 1/2" drill bit and a can of drilling oil (WD40) works great and a drill on low speed and just bust all the heads off and let those bolts fall thru, replacing them is a minor expense compared to the virgin ears that will inevitably hear your screams of torment trying to fight that corroded crap underneath.

yes i feel that if there are any virgin ears within shouting distance, they will be scarred for life, because it will be me and my father doing the project, and needless to say we don't have exactly clean vocabularies when it comes to stuff like this... ooops
Old 03-15-2013, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by zolson
but i have to go to lowes today to replace my Kobalt half inch ratchet.
Sounds like you've been using a ratchet where a breaker bar is the better tool!

Regardless, I love my 3/4" drive sockets, breaker bar and ratchet for jobs like this, assuming you have the access to use them.
Old 03-15-2013, 11:16 AM
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when i replace the bolts when i put the bed back on, i'm going to just use regular bolts for ease in the future, hex heads on top and bottom. i plan on doing this project in a few weeks once i can ride my motorcycle again (its too damn cold right now) so that way i wont have to drive it much without a bed on it. but i will probably start getting under there today with some PB blaster and spray down all the bolts to pregame them for removal
Old 03-15-2013, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by DPDISXR4Ti
Sounds like you've been using a ratchet where a breaker bar is the better tool!

Regardless, I love my 3/4" drive sockets, breaker bar and ratchet for jobs like this, assuming you have the access to use them.
Ive got a fatty 1" breaker bar thats about 2 feet long, i LOVE using that thing, but i need to see if there is a swivel and 3/4" socket in that set that i could use for this, if not i have the 1/2" set with an 18" breaker bar and swivel
Old 03-15-2013, 07:06 PM
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When i took my old bed off i tack welded the bolts to the bed then took a grinder and ground out the tack. Seafoam deep creep works way better than pb blaster.
Old 03-18-2013, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jrh5610
When i took my old bed off i tack welded the bolts to the bed then took a grinder and ground out the tack. Seafoam deep creep works way better than pb blaster.
Ive never heard of the deep creep before, ill have to check that out when i get a day off and can get to the auto parts store!
Old 03-18-2013, 11:35 AM
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I know auto zone sells it there could be other places to get it
Old 03-18-2013, 11:40 AM
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im sure they will have that at like napa and advance as well, which are both closer to me the nearest autozone is about a half hour away from me
Old 03-18-2013, 06:54 PM
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Just mix up a 50/50 blend of ATF and Acetone. It's well-documented to have done a better job than all the commercial products.
Old 03-26-2013, 09:36 PM
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[MENTION=51418]zolson[/MENTION] so youre just going to put regular heax head bolts in when you put the bed back on? im doing this exact same thing this weekend (3/29-3/31 2013) with my 1995 but im removing the side tank and installing a new rear. how long for new bolts and where can i find those? will Fastenal have them. i just dont have time to order online for bolts.

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