djfllmn

iTrader: (1)

also..what about the rad cap?

sdmartin65

I had a 4 core brass and copper radiator. Could run truck without a fan, even at idle it would not heat up. It held about 3/4 of gallon over standard 2 core.
I had to warrantee that radiator out because it leaked. They no longer carry it so I now have the two row again. Fan clutch needed replaced, so I ran the truck for a day without the fan on. It would start to heat up in under five minutes of idling. It's only in the 60s where I'm at.
At a minimum try reinstalling the fan the clutch and the shroud. A fan clutch isn't going to pull that much horsepower away from a twin turbo set up. If that doesn't work you might have to go to a larger radiator.

farmer12

I have the performance water pump on it from summit, it's an obviously bigger impeller than the standard pump. I have a 7 lbs rad cap on with an over flow.

The fan is a derale, I've used them plenty before and they've always done the job. It moves a pile of air when it's running.
Yeah it's a high revver, it's a tci c6 Trans with 4.10s, I knew it would probably rev pretty high, kinda regret not putting an aod in it. But I have a gear vendors OD I'm thinking bout putting on it from my other truck, that 5 speed doesn't really need it. It's got a separate Trans cooler mounted up front in front of the intercooler.
The heat soak was another thought I had too, the turbos have dam good blankets on the turbines, I can actually touch the blanket after it's hot and not get burned that's how good they are. The pipes are all ceramic Coated and wrapped. But my next thing to try was taking the hood off and running it that way, just to see if it'll help.

unit505

Have you considered remote mounting the trans cooler in the bed or under the truck? Did you bypass the radiator with the trans cooler? Also, what about an ac condenser? It's entirely possible to reduce radiator airflow with the trans cooler and intercooler not mention an added ac condenser. Consistently turning 2500 rpm is generating a ton of heat soak internally. Your idea of an oad will surely reduce some of that.

Edit....have you tested the cooling issue by cranking the heat up to full blast with the blower on high? If, after you start running hot, the heater is able to reduce that temp even slightly, you've more than likely got an airflow issue.

farmer12

I haven't tried running the heater at all when it gets hot, I will have to do that. There is no ac on it so no condenser. My Trans cooler is a long narrow style that sits in front of the intercooler along the bottom. The part I did forget to mention was it will cool down when I stop and just let it idle with the fan on. It's not quick by any means but it will cool down.

farmer12

And I did bypass the rad with the Trans cooler, the rad I have in it doesn't have a Trans cooler port. If I were to move it under the bed I'd have to buy a different one as a fan wouldn't really work on it. But I'd do it if it was causing it.

MaverickDan

How much timing are you running? If your timing is too retarded it can cause over heating. Is your ignition is locked out? I prefer running vac advance with a boost timing master for this reason.

Manuellabour247

Picture of the engine bay? Just wondering how the turbos have been mounted/set-up. Could prevent enough flow going by the engine. I've seen true hood vents on some heavily modified race trucks, but they all have their hoods up between runs anyways.

farmer12

Running 35 deg total timing with the advance locked out and an msd 6 btm. It's def not retarded to much, seems most guys were running that much timing that I've talked to. I don't have a pic right now but the pass turbo is mounted right on the header but the driver is offset toward the fender more to clear the master cyl.

Manuellabour247

I see you have long tubes and true duals. What size are they?

EDIT**NM, I forgot you said they were ceramicoated and wrapped.