Topic Sponsor

Replacing clutch slave cylinder

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-31-2012, 01:33 PM
  #1  
Member
Thread Starter
 
MrRusty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 75
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Replacing clutch slave cylinder

I have to replace clutch slave cylinder on my 1994 f150 4.9L I6 with Mazda 5 speed. I know I will need;

- clutch master cylinder - I will get OEM one from Ford dealer - don't want to put in cheap part which will fail couple months later
- ATF fluid I believe Mercon fluid will work
- gaskets for drain and fill plug on the transmission
- transmission top gasket, the one where the shifter is...
- clutch? I dont really want to spend the money, new clutch was put in at 125k miles, truck has 189k miles now. No slippage on the clutch.

Would it be worth it to replace the clutch? If yes I want to go with aftermarket unit, one which will be pretty strong, I have two trailers and plan to haul and tow with the truck.

Anything else I should replace while the transmission is out?
Old 12-31-2012, 06:29 PM
  #2  
It's a Canadian thing eh!
 
sylver91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ontario, living across a hay field
Posts: 6,539
Received 195 Likes on 188 Posts

Default

Not needed, but recommended to change out the clutch master cyl with the slave as it ill have the same wear on it as the slave. You would probably be fine with the original one, but its nice to know that everything in the hydraulic system is new and not prone to fail again for a long time. Glad I did because I took my old one apart and found it to be filthy inside.

Also you should be fine for the clutch, just spray some brake clean on it in case you got some brake fluid on it. I would also change out the rear main seal if you choose to pull the flywheel off. If its not leaking, won't be long till it does unless you changed it already.
Old 12-31-2012, 07:00 PM
  #3  
November 2011 TOTM Winner
 
5Rangers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 1,458
Received 73 Likes on 71 Posts

Default

Its a tough decision .. on the one hand your clutch has alot of life in it. I would guess as much as another 65k depending how its been treated. On the other hand, your already in there and not many more bolts or $$ to just replace it. If money is tight maybe let it go... If you have some saved just for such things maybe replace. Maybe get a look at it all when you get in there and decide.

I put an 11" Luk Pro Gold in mine which is overkill but the kit was cheaper then the stock style Luk. Its my second Luk I have put in a vehicle and I have been pretty happy with them. They are built for abuse.
Old 01-05-2013, 11:00 AM
  #4  
Junior Member
 
Chris Salvesen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 24
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I'm doing this same thing on my truck. Started leaking to the point I couldn't get the clutch to disengage.
I am replacing/fixing the following:
Clutch master and slave cylinders
Resurfaced flywheel
New Clutch kit
Rear main seal
Shifter bushing kit w/ top knub seal plate (the one with three torx head screws, mine was busted and leaking)
Shifter forks (this was a surprise repair after pulling my shift plate and seeing they were almost completely worn thru. gears and syncros look ok though so I'm not rebuilding)
Shifter plate rear plugs - had AAMCO do the forks and plugs for $180 - If yours still has the three rubber plugs at the back of the shift plate, this is highly recommended as they will eventually leak if they aren't already. A local trans shop could do just the plugs for super cheap if you just take the shift plate in to them, prob like $15. They will/should replace them with metal ones that won't shrink & leak like the original rubber ones.

Gasket on the bottom of the shft plate only needs replaced if it is cracked or smashed flat even with the plate surface. Mine still sticks up a bit and should be fine with some RTV added to it before assembly.

Also while you have the tranny out and the shift plate off, it's a good opportunity to inspect your gears for wear. I even got several bottles of brake cleaner and flushed the tranny out. Just make sure you give it time for all the brake cleaner to completely evaporate before refilling it. I've also read that it doesn't hurt to add a full 4 qts while you have the top open. Overfilling a bit is supposedly a good thing although not possible thru the fill plug. I'm also going to add about 1/4 qt of synthetic gear oil to mine to add a boost of anti-wear. And Mercon will not just work, it is what is specifically called for in the manual. A dexron/mercon compatible is acceptable. Have also heard people recommend a product called Slick Shift or something like that...

My truck is also a 4x4 so I had to pull the transfer case too. This was a real pain in ****. Even snapped off a starter bolt in the process. I'm replacing everything I can while I have it apart. I do not want to have to do it again unless my tranny goes out. Being that this is just a work/camping/leisure vehicle that won't be getting to many miles on it, my hope is the tranny will last as long as I own it.

ALSO: If your slave cylinder has been leaking much, I have read that the brake fluid can/will ruin your cluch disk.... just something to think about.

Last edited by Chris Salvesen; 01-05-2013 at 11:29 AM.
Old 12-14-2013, 07:43 PM
  #5  
Member
 
ACracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Georgia
Posts: 36
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Subscribed!
Old 12-15-2013, 03:42 PM
  #6  
It's a Canadian thing eh!
 
sylver91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ontario, living across a hay field
Posts: 6,539
Received 195 Likes on 188 Posts

Default

Not much going on, this is almost a full year ago.



Quick Reply: Replacing clutch slave cylinder



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:37 AM.