Crownman

The general rule is that 400 on a stock 302 block is about tops. Over that people have had problems with cracking in the lifter valley. Also, The 19# injectors are really only useful to maybe 320HP before they aren't enough. You should be able to have something built for less than 6k. I got a reman long block with a Comp Cam for just under 2k from a local machine shop. Also

Basically....

What is it you plan on doing with the truck?

How much power do you want?

What are you willing to spend?

Are you willing to have it tuned?

Since it's a 4x4 what kind of engine do you want? One more for TQ and off roading, one for more HP on the road, or in the middle?

Chances are you could just have your stock trans rebuilt with some beefier parts cheaper than buying a whole different one. Also, changing out the axle gearing can make a huge difference in how the truck feels to drive.

jakelind454

The truck is old just passed over 250,000 miles, but it was my second vehicle after the 69 Camaro i had and i really don't like car payments or newer vehicles. I've already put a lot of money into the suspension, frame, gas tanks, wheels and tires, interior, basically everything except body and drivetrain. Body's a no-brainer though...

I drive it because I'm 6'9'' and cannot fit comfortably in anything besides a truck.

I dont plan to offroad (dont plan to anyways), i dont plan to race, and considering i took the hitch off to put on a roll pan im not towing either. Overall its an ext cab street truck to me. I just want a powerful setup (mostly hp wise) that'll be a good motor for a long period of time, without spending more than $10k. So here is what i found, lemme know if you think its worth it!

After tedious amounts of research at work I've come to the conclusion of what I am most likely going to do due to my situation.

Engine; Blueprint Crate 302 bored .030 over to a 306, they rate it at 390 hp (with a carb setup).

Tune; Summit pairs with a company called Motorvation and they make custom chips, for $380 they make you a chip-set to tune using your gearing setup, and other stats to engine, trans and rear and make one for your computer to turn the engine tune from a carb to an EFI/MAF setup.

Extras; Going to use a billet higher performance Distributor and get 24# injectors for my fuel rail. (does this require a diff tune/fuel pump or can the stock ones handle it, i have the dual gas tank setup)

Going with the 306 due to the exact everything fit from my 302 over to it, I liked the 351 idea however I just dont see myself having the time, plus this blueprint block is built right with a 4 bolt main and comes with aluminum heads, mild cam, and mostly forged internals. all i need to do is transfer over the top parts and tune it.

Transmission; Was torn between Gearstar and Monster. Going with Monster due to cost, they make a performance 4r70w that can handle 450hp/500tq and its only going to run me $1800 shipped to my door no core.

TOTAL $$; with exhaust, fluids and some parts (engine stand) the project is going to run me $6738 which is perfect (at least i think) for a performance setup that should produce around 320 to the wheel and last a good bit of time (and is warrantied might I add).

Any sort of things i might run into let me know! i.e. better cooling system due to higher performance motor or trans?

I already bought a new 3 row radiator and water pump, what thermostat should i run? and i also bought an external trans fluid cooler to keep it cool.


Thank you again guys for all your input its not going unnoticed!

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Might have to trim your shroud a little with the bigger rad

Crownman

Nice plan.

With that type of setup I'd probably start witha 180 T stat and see how it does. Also, since you're already doing so much to it go ahead and put an electric fan setup on it.

jakelind454

Should I run the fan off ignition power so its always on? Run a switch for it when it gets hotter? Run it off the thermostat wiring so when that opens up the fan cuts on? Also, does this electronic one negate needing the original fan in the timing? If so I can get rid of the shroud and just use the electric fan off the radiator. Lemme know if I missed anything.

jakelind454

Is 1700 cfm enough? I saw a few around 3000 cfm but they go for $300, what does the stock fan produce? 1700 is already a lot to me...

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

The fans at the auto parts stores have a scale on the box that shows what CFM is good for what displacements.

Crownman

<<<@!1!@>>>

I'm using a fan from a 95 Thunderbird. Used 4 right angle brackets and was able to mount it directly to the radiator. Used only the high speed wire and have a Flex a lite 31163 setup controlling it all.

You mount the included sending unit in the available port on the thermostat housing. Then adjust it to come one when the thermostat opens. It starts slow so there not a jolt on the electrical system. Then slowly ramps up as the temp goes up so that by 10 degrees over the thermostat opening temp it's running at full speed ( if the temp even gets that high) . It also has a bypass to hook to the AC compressor line so that it automatically goes full speed whenever the compressor is running.

And yes, with an electric fan you can remove the stock shroud and the stock fan.

jakelind454

Awesome info and detail, many thanks! Do they make a water pump without the fan stem or can I just take it off the rotation assembly.

Crownman

just pull the 4 bolts holding the fan clutch on, remove the fan/ clutch assembly, then put the 4 bolts back it to hold the pump pulley on. One thing to watch for though. When you put the 4 bolts back in theyll stick out the back further and could possibly hit the pump housing. Mine didnt hit but i have worked on a few engines where they did. So turn the pump pulley by hand before throwing the belt back on. If they do hit just buy 4 1/4 in spacers and youll be good to go.