Motor sawp.
10-05-2016, 04:49 PM
#1
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Motor sawp.
Heyy guys. Now I'm no mechanic by any means just a wrench Turner learning as he goes. I have a 93 f150xl 4x4 5speed with a 300 in it. It has started having minor issues and I'm wanting to swap a carbed 302 in it. Would it be a fairly easy swap and what all would I have to change to make it work.
10-05-2016, 04:54 PM
#2
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It would be much easier to drop in a 302 from a 92-96 F-series.
Carb swap requires a lot of new wiring and a complete retrofit of the ignition and fuel systems, among other things.
Would be much easier to find a donor 302 truck from 92-96. Can grab everything you need out of it and it will all bolt right up.
Carb swap requires a lot of new wiring and a complete retrofit of the ignition and fuel systems, among other things.
Would be much easier to find a donor 302 truck from 92-96. Can grab everything you need out of it and it will all bolt right up.
10-05-2016, 05:31 PM
#4
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Pretty much everything in the engine compartment related to engine and emissions (including the exhaust manifold and y pipe), plus the computer and engine wiring harness, motor mounts, etc.
You will probably want to pick a 94-95 they will be the better 302 HO version. Avoid 96 because that is when they changed to ODB2. You will also probably want to find it from a truck that has a manual transmission, because almost all 302's with automatics in 94 and up were Mass Air Flow and your truck will be Speed Density. If you don't know what these things are start googling.
If it were a 302 to 351 swap or vice versa it would be much easier. Frankly, it isn't really worth the time and effort to to a 300 to 302 swap unless you are planning on building a badass 302. The power gains simply aren't worth it.
You will probably want to pick a 94-95 they will be the better 302 HO version. Avoid 96 because that is when they changed to ODB2. You will also probably want to find it from a truck that has a manual transmission, because almost all 302's with automatics in 94 and up were Mass Air Flow and your truck will be Speed Density. If you don't know what these things are start googling.
If it were a 302 to 351 swap or vice versa it would be much easier. Frankly, it isn't really worth the time and effort to to a 300 to 302 swap unless you are planning on building a badass 302. The power gains simply aren't worth it.
10-05-2016, 06:07 PM
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So what would be the best thing to do if I was too keep my 300. It has a rough time running till it gets warmed up. Usually just a couple mins but it's almost every time I fire it up. But once it idle lines out Its gold. If done plugs and wires and new battery and alternator and stuff like that. But don't really know a whole bunch more to do.
10-05-2016, 06:13 PM
#6
Senior Member
Can you be more specific when you say it runs "rough" while warming up? Does the idle fluctuate? Does it sound like its misfiring?
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10-05-2016, 08:55 PM
#8
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There are quite a few things you can look at. The first thing I would do is pull codes. You can do it using the paper clip trick (there is a sticky thread in the main forum for 87-96 that explains it). It will give you the first clues hopefully.
Other things to consider - idle air control valve, vacuum lines, distributor cap/rotor, fuel pressure - when's the last time the fuel filter was changed?
Other things to consider - idle air control valve, vacuum lines, distributor cap/rotor, fuel pressure - when's the last time the fuel filter was changed?
10-05-2016, 10:14 PM
#10
Senior Member
The main thing with our trucks is that vacuum lines are a big deal. If you haven't replaced all of the stock vacuum lines, you might want to buy about 20 feet of rubber hose and do so as a starting point. Also, test everything to make sure there are no vacuum leaks.
After that, your PCV valve is the next big deal. Motorcraft PCV or nothing. Yes, there is a difference. We all have found out the hard way. Spend the money.
After that, I've found that sensors tend to have worn out on our trucks, but not enough to make the check engine light come on or put you on the side of the road. Most people don't go the route I did and replaced every sensor that is still being made for our trucks, but that's generally another area.
Last, the distributor and ignition module/TFI is another trouble spot.
Not trying to imply that you need to throw money at your truck like I did (I was aiming at like new reliability - and achieved it), but this is the path you'll need to go down to get your truck running like it should. Obviously, test for codes and do what you can without having to spend money unnecessarily.
Start with vacuum hoses and go from there. A fracture or a crack in your vacuum lines can cause major issues and the factory vacuum lines are extremely brittle.
After that, your PCV valve is the next big deal. Motorcraft PCV or nothing. Yes, there is a difference. We all have found out the hard way. Spend the money.
After that, I've found that sensors tend to have worn out on our trucks, but not enough to make the check engine light come on or put you on the side of the road. Most people don't go the route I did and replaced every sensor that is still being made for our trucks, but that's generally another area.
Last, the distributor and ignition module/TFI is another trouble spot.
Not trying to imply that you need to throw money at your truck like I did (I was aiming at like new reliability - and achieved it), but this is the path you'll need to go down to get your truck running like it should. Obviously, test for codes and do what you can without having to spend money unnecessarily.
Start with vacuum hoses and go from there. A fracture or a crack in your vacuum lines can cause major issues and the factory vacuum lines are extremely brittle.
Last edited by qdeezie; 10-05-2016 at 10:32 PM.