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Old 03-23-2015, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by qdeezie
Make sure the vacuum hose from the intake to the MAP sensor is clear. Sometimes crud can get caught in the vacuum tree during assembly/disassembly if the engine was dirty prior to the build.

Also, if you have an aftermarket cam and/or headers, you will need to install an IAC bypass plate for it to idle. Otherwise, it will surge and shut off at idle.
Thanks for the tip. The cam is stock but I did install a set of aftermarket shorty headers and I did not know about as IAC bypass plate so maybe that is what the problem is.
Old 03-23-2015, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris_1
So close ! Almost there though !
Maybe a vacuum leak ? Was tps one of the codes ? I've got a post up (feb 22) on testing the tps.
Hopefully it's something real simple ! Looks real good.
One of the codes was TPS code 63 but I had that before I rebuilt it. It has a new TPS but I think the problem is in the signal wire. That was on my list to do once I got it running.
Old 04-04-2015, 03:42 PM
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Got to work on it a little more today. I checked all of the grounds and they are good. Took the engine wiring harness loose and cleaned it at the connector and at the ecm. Ran it for about 3 or 4 minutes It seems better but it still won't idle. Exhaust is clean and clear, no white or black smoke. I found a water leak at the pump but I want to get the idle fixed before I work on that. Pulled the codes again and got code 63 TPS below minimum voltage, 38 Idle track switch circuit open and 86 shift solenoid circuit failure. The TPS is new and I have 5 volts to the TPS and a good ground so I think my problem is in the signal return wire or the ECM itself. Starting to diagnose this stuff now. Wish me luck. Also asked a local engine rebuilder about IAC bypass plate and he told me that If all my EFI stuff was still hooked up, EGR, O2 sensors and the like (which it is) then It should run. I was hoping it would be something easy but it looks like I'm gonna have to work for it.
Old 04-04-2015, 07:33 PM
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Might just be adjusting the TPS. .9 volts from the signal wire at closed throttle.
Old 04-24-2015, 03:42 PM
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Finally got a chance to drive a few miles today
Laundry List-img_6045.jpg

Everything runs great and I have no codes. The only problem I have is a water leak at the timing cover and block.
Laundry List-img_6044.jpg

Bummer! but after being down since November I am just glad to be driving it again. Guess I'll spend this weekend tearing into the front to fix the leak.
Old 04-24-2015, 07:08 PM
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Maybe you can just snug the bolts a bit ? And make sure it's not just leaking down from the thermostat housing, that's pretty common.
Looks real good though.
Old 04-26-2015, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris_1
Maybe you can just snug the bolts a bit ? And make sure it's not just leaking down from the thermostat housing, that's pretty common.
Looks real good though.
I snugged the bolts a little bit and actually found a drip coming from the upper hose so I tightened up the clamp a little. That has slowed it way down so we'll see how it does for a while. I did actually see a bubble or two coming from the seal between the timing cover and the block before I tightened it, maybe it's fixed. I will be sweating every little noise for 500 mile or so.


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