Intermediate power loss
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Intermediate power loss
So my truck has been running great for a good while now, however my current problem as shown itself before. The issues is weather related, the hotter it is the more this happens. The problem is at times when driving and the truck is given 1/2 or so acceleration, it will start to take off normally, then sometimes the truck may bog down jut a little or none at all, but there is a noticeable power loss. Then at any random point it comes back it does fine. Most of the time at wot, there is no problem, it good on power. but every so often it will accelerate slow. The problem feels like a slipping transmission, but I highly doubt it is. Reason being is when the power is an issue, it also idles rough and sometimes dies, never in town though. It will die sometimes after a long time of idling (5 or 10 mins), never when its cold out though. I first noticed the problem last year on a 105 degree day pulling my 24ft enclosed trailer in stop and go traffic. I watched my tablet that is plugged into my obd2 system, everything seemed to read normal. Engine bay must have been extremely hot, the air going into the intake was right around 160 until I got to speed and stayed at speed. Ended up replacing my fan clutch and didn't have that issue the rest of the summer. But today we had a warm day around 80, and the above symptoms existed, and I had no load. I did a torque converter stall test, and it stopped at 2400 rpm. Is that right for a factory converter? seems high. I was just seeing if anything was obviously wrong with the converter. So all this being said, it sounds like a pip sensor. What do you all think, and how can I test the sensor?
#2
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Sounds more like TPS to me, that can be tested with multimeter.
Testing pip:
Post #24 and on, note the LED test light
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/engine...282013/index3/
Testing pip:
Post #24 and on, note the LED test light
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/engine...282013/index3/
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Sounds more like TPS to me, that can be tested with multimeter.
Testing pip:
Post #24 and on, note the LED test light
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/engine...282013/index3/
Testing pip:
Post #24 and on, note the LED test light
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/engine...282013/index3/
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Found this while reading on another forum.- "and by Steve83; "...The tinfoil is the RFI/EMI shield around the ignition wiring, but it's so fragile that it can easily break, allowing interference to get through. The "drain" wire contacts each wrap of the foil, keeping it connected & working, even if the foil breaks. It also reduces the resistance along the foil, allowing transients to get to ground faster."- When I fixed the wiring on that part of the harness, I wrapped each of the wires in electrical tape, then ran my drain wire to ground, electrical tape around the whole thing, then foil, then electrical tape. I didn't realize the drain wire needed to touch the foil, but it makes sense. So that may be part of my problem, surprised it as just now become a problem. For future reference, here is the link to the forum I got this info from, it has a lot of good information on troubleshooting of code p0385.http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=246529
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Very possible. I live in central Alabama, so humid hot summer days, and humid bone chilling cold winters. I family in upstate new York, their low of 0 degrees feels better then our low of 25 in my opinion lol. But warmers temps allow for more humidity in the air, so that is very much a possibility.
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#8
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#10
Senior Member
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My resistance on the tps is confusing me, at closed throttle I get .765k ohms, and at wot I get 3.27k ohms. Is this not backwards? It should be 3,000 to 4,000 ohms at close throttle, and 350 ohms at wot correct? Even if I reversed these numbers I would have 765 ohms at wot, which is not close to 350, and 3,270 ohms at closed throttle which is the low end of acceptable.