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Evening everyone. The wife and I finally got the tranny pulled in prep for replacing the rear main seal on the '92 F-150 4.9L L6 with the Mazda 5 speed. This is my first go at pulling a tranny. What should I inspect since I have it out and what is all the crap from insid the bell housing? It looks like fiber of some sort. We're guessing a mouse. What can I do to clean it up and get this tranny running good- I know all the bitching about the M5OD but replacing it with a NP isn't in the cards right now. Thank you
Scott, that sure looks like clutch material, not just from rodents. I'd also be sure to put some grease in the pilot bearing, and clean/lube the area around the throwout bearing, as well as the splines on the input shaft. I'm sure you'll be cleaning out that bell housing as well.....
I'll be doing my rear main on Saturday, along with oil pan gasket & front seal.
Thanks Mathew! Yeah she's going to get a good bath but I was also questioning what to grease and with what kind of grease. Same grease I used when I changed my lockouts (
)?? I've got a new slave cylinder, 11" clutch kit with bolts, flywheel, M5OD repair kit (with the 3 torx screws, pins, etc), metal freeze plugs for the shifter rail, etc. I am debating on doing the oil pan gasket while I'm at it. How hard is rotating the engine like they say in the Haynes book? Sounds like loosening up a piece topside and jacking the engine up then blocking it to gain access to slide the pan out. Also, blue locktite on smaller hardware and red on the bigger hardware? Do you put a gasket on the bellhousing to engine mating surface? It looks like there was one but I can't find a gasket for it- put some rtv on the mating surface? And what should I use to hold the metal freeze plugs in the shift rail- looks like guys are using black rtv?? Sorry for the million and one questions. Also how is the front main seal to change out? Thank you for all the help
Last edited by scott.t.wetter; 03-12-2015 at 08:36 AM.
You need an engine hoist to pull the pan with the trans out. Sometimes just snugging the pan bolts is enough.
Blue loctite is (my understanding) for bolts that will be undone, red for bolts that won't.
There is no gasket between the tranny and motor. There is a steel dowel plate that determines starter positioning (mainly). Don't rtv the trans to the motor. They can be hard enough to separate sometimes without being glued.
If your front and rear seals are leaking it's a good idea to make sure your pcv system is working - pressure buildup has to go somewhere, that's usually one of the first places.
You need a little grease on the seal and crank when you install new, just mainly to keep it from starting up dry.
I did close to 30 hours of labor on mine today! Oil pan gasket is done, had it suspended on a cherry picker to accomplish it. Also rear main seal, new clutch, 2 ball joints, U-joint, rebuilt transfer case.... lots of positive stuff!
On the downer, I figured out I have a right front 1/2 shaft needle bearing issue in the spindle. Axle is damaged, spindle can be saved. Problem is new parts aren't available, or I haven't found them yet. Now contemplating disassembly of the other side, just to see the same parts.
Also found out that the transfer case has a crack, at the drain plug!! I'll be able to disassemble on the truck, & take that part to get TIG welded, & back together in a day or 2. Not leaking too profusely, I can drive in the meantime. I honestly think the dirt was sealing it up some! LOL!
I did close to 30 hours of labor on mine today! Oil pan gasket is done, had it suspended on a cherry picker to accomplish it. Also rear main seal, new clutch, 2 ball joints, U-joint, rebuilt transfer case.... lots of positive stuff!
On the downer, I figured out I have a right front 1/2 shaft needle bearing issue in the spindle. Axle is damaged, spindle can be saved. Problem is new parts aren't available, or I haven't found them yet. Now contemplating disassembly of the other side, just to see the same parts.
Also found out that the transfer case has a crack, at the drain plug!! I'll be able to disassemble on the truck, & take that part to get TIG welded, & back together in a day or 2. Not leaking too profusely, I can drive in the meantime. I honestly think the dirt was sealing it up some! LOL!
Sounds like you're having more fun than me Matt lol. Sounds like you're making headway though. I think that's why we do these projects sometimes- so we have something to show for our bloody knuckles. Also have you checked out Bronco Graveyard or LMC Truck for those parts? Otherwise just do a solid frontend conversion?? As for us- a simple rear seal has turned into getting a new oil pan on order now cause I didn't realize 1.) they're prone to s**t the bed and 2.) just how bad it really was. But it's a fun project and my wife is in the garage with me turning wrenches for the first time working with me on a project vehicle. We ended up pulling the bench seat and carpet yesterday and no while we wait on parts I'm going to do my best to patch the cancer in the floor. Thank you everyone for the guidance!
03-08-2015, 09:11 PM
Changing out the main seal
