Lowering long box
#1
Lowering long box
Does anyone have any experience lowering a 92-96 2wd f150 long box? could you post some pics and let me know what parts/kit you used. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
#2
Senior Member
3-5 Drop DJM suspension=cheaply made but works fine... Cast Aluminum light weight I-beams...Had one crack almost in half on me when hitting a large pot hole. Switched to Bell-Tech...That happened about 10 or 11 years ago so I have no clue what they are made of now.
Bell-tech 3-5 drop= higher quality "Steel" I-beams I would recommend them. They are heavier duty construction.
Even if you don't get the Bell-tech I-beams I drastically recommend you to get the flip kit from Bell-Tech...The DJM is a square U-shape with out any support for the bottom part of the differential except a flat piece.. Over time...Talking about years it will dent the differential and your diff will start leaking were it cracks. I know from personal experience. I have welded the crack on the differential housing multiple times do to those brackets. The Bell-Tech Flip kit supports the differential with an actual U shape design instead of the DJM Square shape. You get what you pay for.
You will most likely need pinion angle shims... to set the right angle of the drive shaft when lowering the rear of the vehicle...I never used them and have gone through the entire process of fixing rear pinion seals, replacing pinion bearings and even replacing the ring and pinion gear do to incorrect angle.
You will need drop shocks for the rear with a 5 inch drop...FActory ones may work for the front with a 3 inch drop but I never tried.
You can still use your factory sway bars for the front and rear of the vehicle with a 3-5 drop...You will just have to relocate the little brackets for the front sway bar that connect to the coil spring bracket and the Sway bar.
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/1996-f...t-lower-31374/
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/front-...ay-bar-110272/
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/73...94-f150-2.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...f150-help.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/81...2-96-f150.html
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewt...p?f=41&t=19040
http://www.f150online.com/forums/lig...lightning.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...92-f150-2.html
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/where-...41290/index26/
Bell-tech 3-5 drop= higher quality "Steel" I-beams I would recommend them. They are heavier duty construction.
Even if you don't get the Bell-tech I-beams I drastically recommend you to get the flip kit from Bell-Tech...The DJM is a square U-shape with out any support for the bottom part of the differential except a flat piece.. Over time...Talking about years it will dent the differential and your diff will start leaking were it cracks. I know from personal experience. I have welded the crack on the differential housing multiple times do to those brackets. The Bell-Tech Flip kit supports the differential with an actual U shape design instead of the DJM Square shape. You get what you pay for.
You will most likely need pinion angle shims... to set the right angle of the drive shaft when lowering the rear of the vehicle...I never used them and have gone through the entire process of fixing rear pinion seals, replacing pinion bearings and even replacing the ring and pinion gear do to incorrect angle.
You will need drop shocks for the rear with a 5 inch drop...FActory ones may work for the front with a 3 inch drop but I never tried.
You can still use your factory sway bars for the front and rear of the vehicle with a 3-5 drop...You will just have to relocate the little brackets for the front sway bar that connect to the coil spring bracket and the Sway bar.
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/1996-f...t-lower-31374/
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/front-...ay-bar-110272/
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/73...94-f150-2.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...f150-help.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/81...2-96-f150.html
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewt...p?f=41&t=19040
http://www.f150online.com/forums/lig...lightning.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...92-f150-2.html
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/where-...41290/index26/
Last edited by Toplait; 03-07-2014 at 11:42 PM.
#3
C-notch
Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate all the info. I had talked to belltech on the phone but they said their kit was only intended for a short box truck although u couldn't see why it wouldn't work on a long box. Did you do a c-notch on your truck? How is the ride quality? I don't use my truck for work but I do often transport motorcycles with it so I would like it to still be able to take 600lbs in the bed and have it drive well, is this realistic?
#4
Senior Member
Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate all the info. I had talked to belltech on the phone but they said their kit was only intended for a short box truck although u couldn't see why it wouldn't work on a long box. Did you do a c-notch on your truck? How is the ride quality? I don't use my truck for work but I do often transport motorcycles with it so I would like it to still be able to take 600lbs in the bed and have it drive well, is this realistic?
you might be able to transport 1 bike with out issues but I would say no...Unless you C-notch the frame... I did not do a C-notch. I just cut the bump stops in half...But I recently ordered a new set of low profile bump stops...
Future plans on C-notching the frame and lowering it another inch or 2 with adjustable shackles depending on what the front looks like after I install 2 inch lowering springs and putting some 255/60/15 tires on it.
#6
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
You could use load assist for extra bed weight, either spring helpers or load assist shocks that you add air to for more weight. I have the load assist shocks and love them, don't have her dropped though.
I had an S10 that was dropped and I hated it, we have horrible roads here and every bump it would bottom out, skid plate transferred the force into the frame then straight into the seat. It was like getting donkey kicked in the butt repeatedly. I do like how that black one looks but I use mine for work, not super heavy loads, so I go with function. Same reason I haven't lifted it either, still want to be able to reach over the side into the bed.
I had an S10 that was dropped and I hated it, we have horrible roads here and every bump it would bottom out, skid plate transferred the force into the frame then straight into the seat. It was like getting donkey kicked in the butt repeatedly. I do like how that black one looks but I use mine for work, not super heavy loads, so I go with function. Same reason I haven't lifted it either, still want to be able to reach over the side into the bed.
#7
Martin
You could always do shackles and hangers in the rear for 4". Then Belltech 2" springs up front. Wouldn't put you as low as the black truck pictured but would be fairly inexpensive and as a plus stock shocks would still work.
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#8
Still planning
I think that's more the route I may end up going. It sounds like I can keep the truck a little more useable that way and it's not going to cost so much money. I still want to be able to use the truck as a truck.
#9
I know its not a 92-97, but i used the djm 3/5 lowering kit. The dream beams are powder coated steel. not aluminum. There are 2 issues that you may run into. Rust and camber. It took a LONG LONG time to break the bolt loose under the spring connecting the i beam to the radial arms. After they are installed you may need to get a camber bushing.