cnikazy71

So, I have a positive camber and I'm looking at buying some camber bushings that will straighten me out. Not to sound stupid, but do I need to buy camber bushings that adjust from negative to zero degrees and positive to zero degrees?

fltdriver

If you have a 2wd you will want Moog K80109, 4x4 Moog K80108. Those are fully adjustable in either direction.

Mista_Breeze

But also keep in mind that by adjusting the camber with a "fully adjustable" bushing like those, you're also changing the caster angle. I wouldn't recommend buying bushings that adjust up to 3 degrees if your wheel is only out 1.5 because that will throw off your caster more than necessary. And while your truck won't technically be out of alignment, it will tend to pull to the side with the most positive caster.

My recommendation: go to your local alignment shop, most offer a free alignment check. Get one and ask for a printout. This will show the readings for caster, camber, and toe. Look at the camber readings to determine how far out each side is and buy the bushings that are just over that. Moog bushings are sold in increments of 1/4 degree. So if the left is out .81 degrees buy a 1 degree, etc. and do each side separately, they don't have to be the same on each side as long as the camber evens out. The closer your bushing correction is to your actual camber reading, the less it will affect your caster.

sdmartin65

Mista Breeze is correct about the best alignment procedure. The camber bushings that he writes about will move the caster angle a slight amount, enough for alignment to be brought to spec. The fully adjustable bushings are very hard to work with, most shops will hate you for coming in with them or simply pull them out in favor of solid bushings. A lot of tire shops might have never had to align a ttb so the tech might have zero experience with it.

Mista_Breeze

TTB front ends are never 'always aligned' the camber angle changes constantly as you drive. When you accelerate it goes positive ( \--/ ) because the front lifts, when you brake and the front dips down it goes negative ( /--\ ) so no matter how hard you try to get it perfect, as long as it's even close, you won't get unusual tire wear. However if your camber and toe aren't the same on both sides you may have drifting issues. For the most part caster is not adjustable on the TTB. You can tweak it a hair with the solid camber bushings but aside from that, the only way to change it is to tighten or loosen the radius arm (which I would not recommend)

fltdriver

I to agree with getting solid state bushings if you can afford the cost of an alignment, but remember that the adjustable bushings allow you to adjust caster and camber independently of each other (you can set the same bushing to +1.5cas/-2cam or +1.5cas/+1cam, etc...) it's the solid state that have single hole and when rotated they change everything together-there is no adjusting cas without adjusting cam.

Honestly if you have time and patience they are a good investment. You can even set them to true zero and go in an have an alignment printout ($25-40 where I live) then set them yourself based on the printout and the alignment graph that comes with them. I set my cas/cam myself after installing 824 springs, took a couple hours to get everything how I wanted it, then about 20 minutes longer after taking a short drive. I didn't even get the printout. That was close to 9 months ago now and I've had no issues or uneven wear on the tires and the still sit the same as they did on my last adjustment after the initial drive.