NYCflareside

Hi,
I'm looking to do a rear disc conversion as well as all new hydraulic hoses to better accommodate the lift. While I'm there, I'm going to change the RABS module because the rear disc swap relies on that, and a new master cylinder. In a nutshell, I'm going to do it all in one shot. My question is in relation to the bleeding order. Its a 1993 f150 5.0 with RABS. I'm almost certain the master cylinder needs to be bench bled, but apart from that, what is the bleed sequence. I'll have a helper. Usually its RR, LR, RF, LF, but I'm not sure how to integrate the master cylinder and RABS valve.
Thanks for any help.

dcrabby

1995 Ford F-250 4X4 Complete Brake System Bleed - YouTube" target="_blank">1995 Ford F-250 4X4 Complete Brake System Bleed - YouTube

Oct 8, 2012 ... ... procedure used to completely flush out the brake fluid and replace it w. ... 2000
ford f150 ? .. cuz Im about to order one bleeder kit from motive ...
http://www.youtube.com

Mathew Reid

Where did you get a rear disc brake conversion kit, & does that use an internal drum for parking brake, or mechanized caliper?

NYCflareside

Bronco Graveyard has the kit, and mechanized caliper.

NYCflareside

And this didn't answer my question about how to integrate (aka when to integrate) the RABS valve into the bleeding sequence.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

I just bled my brakes. Fluid went through the rabs. I didn't have to do anything special. Maybe someone else has a special procedure, but I didn't have a problem.
The master should be bench bled, yes.

NYCflareside

Gotcha, I'm just worried because my entire system will be dry, I don't want air pockets getting caught up in random places.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Mine was complete new everything from the rabs back. I usually waste fluid by going through everything twice, but that's just me. Someone else may have a better way.
One thing I found that works really well (someone else posted it somewhere, I can't take the credit) is if you find some clear plastic line that fits the bleeder really tight, you can loop that line up over something so it goes higher than what you're bleeding, then down into a partial container of brake fluid (I use a water bottle with a hole drilled in the top to fit the plastic line real snug). Bottle partly full of brake fluid so the end of the line is submerged.
Crack the bleeders and let gravity get fluid to all the brakes
You can then just open the bleeder on the one with your line on it and pump the pedal slowly as many times as you want. You don't have to keep opening and closing the bleeder.Air goes out and up, fluid will get pulled back in.
Works real good especially if you don't have a helper.
Hard to describe exactly, I don't have a picture but if you follow the logic you see why it works, fluid and air gets pushed out, fluid gets pulled back.

fltdriver

With a brand new (dry) system I would use a vacuum gauge to pull the fluid starting with the shortest line (LF), then (RF) (LR) (RR). Then I would go back through and bleed the brakes in the conventional farthest to shortest order (one you listed). Brake fluid is fairly cheap so don't worry about wasting it. Just get a gallon and take this time to flush another vehicle or two with some fresh fluid as well.

RLXXI

Best but not the fastest way is to put a catch pan under all 4 wheels, remove the master cylinder covers, fill with fluid and open all 4 bleeder valves, let gravity work for you. Vacuum pump is faster, and/or a pressure bleed.

This is after you have bench bled the master cylinder.