4WD Suspension Help...
#1
4WD Suspension Help...
I've got a 92 4wd F150 and need some help please. My truck Clunks when going over bumps, when turning the wheel and Under drivers side footwell. Whats all needed if I'm gonna do the ball joints in the front end?
Bj's, shocks, sway bars, tie rods, seals etc.?
Bj's, shocks, sway bars, tie rods, seals etc.?
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
If you're going to change ball joints, you'll need ball joints.
get the moog adjustable uppers.
A clunk when turning, especially by the footwell will quite often turn out to be radius arm bushings or brackets.
Check if you actually need ball joints before you go replacing them. They may be fine.
Jack it up, grab the top and bottom of the tire and see if there's any play.
If you're not comfortable with your own assessment, a good mechanic you trust will probably only charge you $20 to check out your whole front end and show you what's wrong. Ask how much it will cost first. Some guys will even do it for free if they're not too busy (and you're polite about it).
get the moog adjustable uppers.
A clunk when turning, especially by the footwell will quite often turn out to be radius arm bushings or brackets.
Check if you actually need ball joints before you go replacing them. They may be fine.
Jack it up, grab the top and bottom of the tire and see if there's any play.
If you're not comfortable with your own assessment, a good mechanic you trust will probably only charge you $20 to check out your whole front end and show you what's wrong. Ask how much it will cost first. Some guys will even do it for free if they're not too busy (and you're polite about it).
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Take a look at your radius arm brackets to see if they've been changed before. If they have, the brackets will be bolted to the frame. If they've never been done, the brackets will be riveted to the frame.
If they're bolted, it's not too bad. If they're still riveted, then the rivets have to be ground off, punched out and then replaced with Grade 8 bolts - A little harder to think about taking on in the driveway.
There are ways to change the radius arm bushings without taking off the brackets, but quite often the brackets will be rusted out inside where the bushing goes so you end up having to take them off anyway.
You'll want to get some penetrating oil on any bolts well ahead of time, especially the 1 1/8" one at the end of the radius arm. Some heat will help too.
If they're bolted, it's not too bad. If they're still riveted, then the rivets have to be ground off, punched out and then replaced with Grade 8 bolts - A little harder to think about taking on in the driveway.
There are ways to change the radius arm bushings without taking off the brackets, but quite often the brackets will be rusted out inside where the bushing goes so you end up having to take them off anyway.
You'll want to get some penetrating oil on any bolts well ahead of time, especially the 1 1/8" one at the end of the radius arm. Some heat will help too.
#5
You might check the trans Xmember bolts as well. I recently had a clunk when going over a speed bump or when turning the wheel left and right. There was a loose bolt on the drivers side and when the truck shifted its weight the member would move sightly and clunk. I could feel it in the floor board and the wheel.