hammeredsole

Hello everyone. I just purchased a 1995 F150 Scab Eddie Bauer on eBay, and would like to basically restomod this thing to a super daily driver. The truck is a fully loaded Eddie Bauer Scab 4x4 with the 5.8 and E4OD transmission. It has every conceivable upgrade from the factory; dual tanks, 4x4, tow kit, cruise and all power. The best part? The truck only has 58,000 miles on it.

My goal is to create an excellent daily driver, and I am not wanting to lift it, but I am going to do a 1.5" leveling kit. I'll be replacing the rear leafs as well, because I want to make sure all springs are to as-new spec. I plan on rebuilding the entire brake system, and would like to upgrade everything in the suspension area as well. I was looking at energy suspension body bushings, as well as urethane leaf bushings, spring perches, sway bushings etc.

I have extensive experience working on cars engines and suspension, and a little general experience on a JK wrangler unlimited. I'd like to create a great driving experience (reliability is key), and already have a Punisher valve body coming in, as well as all wear items in engine bay. My goals are to install this stuff and have a firm compliant ride, without undue NVH and maintenance.

What recommendations can anyone make as to what I should replace or upgrade? It's already 21 years old, so I want to replace all rubber items. Point me in the right direction for springs, shocks, bushings, and other stuff. If you want to share your experience with different brands, kits, etc... it would be very much appreciated. This truck is now basically a classic, and I want to treat it as such. Money is no object, and I'm not interested in drastically altering the geometry.

What do you say??

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Metal brake lines. Maybe head gaskets. Vacuum lines. Clean all the exposed (bolt on) electrical connections, especially grounds.

hammeredsole

For metal brake lines, are you referring to a braided line to replace the rubber hose? Or something like bronco graveyard or inlinetube to replace all the metal brake lines? I was planning on doing everything in the brake system to begin with, as everything is pretty affordable to begin with.

Any guidance on leveling kits? I've been reading about suspension measurements before leveling. If it's within a certain range, I'll be ok... if not, I need to lift it 4" at least??? That doesn't make a lot of sense, but this is what I'm reading at Rough Country.

kd3pc

I used inline tube.com and was very pleased with their stainless kit. I also go the flex lines from them and new uclips for those lines. Locally sourced the other brake parts (rotors, calipers, pads,etc)

I went urrethane on my suspension rubber parts and will do the cab to chassis in urethane when the budget allows.

I cleaned up the grounds while doing the brakes.

All of the U-joints front and shaft, along with ball joints, and other front end wear parts were done as well.

Drives like a new car and stops smoother than ever. Less than two new truck payments to do it all.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

I was referring to the steel brake lines. Old ones have a habit of starting to leak at inopportune times.
Lifting the front comes down to how much camber adjustment you can get out of your upper ball joints before you have to drop the pivot bushing mount point down to allow you to get the camber back into spec. Otherwise you end up with your front wheels tipped way out on the top.
Lifting the frame raises the pivot point but the wheels are still on the ground. That tips the wheels out. The upper ball joint has adjustment to tip it back in. If you run out of adjustment, then the pivot points have to be extended down from the frame. Most pivot bushing extension brackets only come in 4" or 6".
1 1/2" you should be ok. MOOG makes an adjustable upper ball joint shim.