Homerr1971

I just bought a 1994 F150, 4.9l six, 2wd, M5OD manual trans, 154k miles, 6' bed, stock wheels. I plan to do the usual Home Depot runs, maybe get a bed full of mulch once a year, and move a dresser or couch - the suburban life basics.

But the other one-time deal a year or two off is to haul a project car (2nd gen Charger) home that I'll buy in the future. I thought the truck would handle it no problem, but looking further I'm not so sure. The plan is to use a Uhaul car transport trailer, they're $20 for the day. The Charger may or may not have an engine in it, so it may weigh around 3700# with a big block or 3000# with no motor. I'm trying to think realistically that my tow radius will be no more than 100 miles. I'm totally okay keeping it slow on secondary roads for towing.

After looking the truck over and figuring out the door sticker ratings here's what I came up with from the owners manual: I have the 3.55 8.8" rear axle, the truck apparently weights 3,896 lbs. and is rated for GCVW of 7,800#.

From the door sticker:

GVWR: 5,250#
Front GAWR: 2,500#
Rear GAWR: 3,166#

Uhaul says I can tow their 2,200# trailer with a V8 Dart (3200#), but not a slant-6 Charger (3100#) - with either 5,000# or 6,000# hitch rating system in their configurator.

But, as I figure it, the owner's manual states this is the situation for the whole package truck/trailer/car:

7,800 GCVW
-3,896 truck
-2,200 trailer
============
1,704 load capacity

It seems like GCVW is at odds with Uhaul's limits, at least from what I could decipher in the manual.

I'm okay telling Uhaul I'll tow a Dart instead of a roller Charger (without engine), but I'd like to know where I'm at.

The Uhaul hitches are $145/160/240 for 5,000/6,000/6,000# respectively. Any idea why the last two have same rating? I get the receiver, mount, and ball rating - that's easy - but the hitch part is throwing me. Should I just get a different hitch?


Plan A: The truck has new front tires but the rears are getting old so I'll replace them (any suggestions for a 'street' type tire? Special load-rated tire?). Check the brakes, replace/rebuild as necessary. Get a hitch, either self-install or just have Uhaul do it. It has a bumper hitch ball on it now, but that won't be used (I'll get a proper frame mounted hitch), but its be wired for a trailer.

Plan B: Plan A plus something like a spring helper kit to keep the truck from running nose up. Will this help?

Plan C: Not sure, is this crazy? I get it now, I should have bought a F250, but given what I have what are your ideas? Wheels studs? Rear axle bearings? Basically, can I build a heavy-half ton cost effectively?



1994 F150

Manuellabour247

1. You'd have to look at your bumper to make sure everything is good to go as far as mounting.


2. It will be at the upper limit or possibly over for your vehicle.


3. The last two trailers rated at 6k are probably a surge brake style vs electronic brake.


4. Add a leaf's are great for restoring your trucks towing capacity with work out springs, but nothing will upgrade your towing capability legally.


5. Tires will help handle the load as well. Look at getting some heavier load rated tires. Double check the tires on the trailer before you pick it up as well. Make sure there's no chunks missing or uneven wear just like you would on your truck.


The truck is physically capable of towing a great load, but legally you should only tow what it is rated for. If this will be a long term truck, it would be better to go through it now and replace worn out parts to bring it back to life. That way when you tow with it, you won't have as many possible problems.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

For a one time tow just rent a truck too and don't worry about all the upgrades to your truck to use it once for something. Or call a tow truck. Then everything's legal, insurance is all good.
Worry about making your half ton up to snuff to do half ton stuff.
For one time to tow something it doesn't make sense to build yourself a tow truck.