Are these valves okay or replace?
10-15-2015, 04:54 PM
#21
10-15-2015, 05:17 PM
#22
Senior Member
Yeah I wouldn't try to use those valves personally. A valve set with new guides shouldn't be that expensive. This is a learning experience and no harm no foul with messing up the valve. Now you know more than you did yesterday.
This is how a lot of us learned what not to do. At least you already have it torn apart. If you get new valves, take the whole works to a machine shop for chemical cleaning and let them seat the new valves/guides/keepers. It's more expensive than what you were doing, but it'll pay off in the long run. Shouldn't be more than a few hundred bucks.
This is how a lot of us learned what not to do. At least you already have it torn apart. If you get new valves, take the whole works to a machine shop for chemical cleaning and let them seat the new valves/guides/keepers. It's more expensive than what you were doing, but it'll pay off in the long run. Shouldn't be more than a few hundred bucks.
10-15-2015, 06:11 PM
#23
A reputable machine shop will try to grind the valves before tossing them and guides are an item that is very seldomly changed/knurled unless it's a small block Chevy engine. I learned how to build engines the old fashioned way.
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10-15-2015, 06:14 PM
#24
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I appreciate all the help and advice during this learning process. Would it be suitable to have a machine shop grind and re face the valves then I do the lapping myself? I'm kind of on a budget and I like being as self sufficient as I can. Also, valve guides? Neither the Haynes or Chilton manual says anything about valve guides. But if they help the performance they are cheep enough. To be clear I am working on an 89 bronco V8 5.0 302. Which I believe is basically an F150, if that makes a difference with the guides.
10-15-2015, 07:17 PM
#25
Well that wasn't exactly what you were going for, but not the end of the world.
The part that you originally had an arrow to is the face and it has to mate exactly with the seat in the head.
What you were doing would have brought you back to a regular grind on the valve seat, which is ok, but not the best grind anyway.
The margin part is not even important. The only important thing is that the face matches exactly with the seat so it will seal perfectly.
Option 1 is to find a set of used heads, they're nothing special just an E7 head (E7TE) you could probably find some for 50.00 and just start again on the valves.
Option 2 would be a machine shop. I don't know what they charge in your area (call around maybe) but the local guy I would take them to here charges 225.00 a set to boil out the heads (clean clean),install new frost plugs, grind the seats, do a triple angle valve grind on the valves and reassemble the heads. I have to provide the new valve seals from my gasket set.
I would think that you probably still have more than enough meat left on those valves for a triple angle grind, and if not a good shop will usually be able to steer you in the right direction to find some good used valves for them to grind up for you.
If they tell you to go buy new ones, go shopping for a different machine shop.
That's just my opinion, but that's what I would do.
Biggest thing is that those are really common heads and used ones are dirt cheap. The money is in rebuilding them - which is cleaning them, making those 2 surfaces mate so they seal, and installing new valve seals.
The part that you originally had an arrow to is the face and it has to mate exactly with the seat in the head.
What you were doing would have brought you back to a regular grind on the valve seat, which is ok, but not the best grind anyway.
The margin part is not even important. The only important thing is that the face matches exactly with the seat so it will seal perfectly.
Option 1 is to find a set of used heads, they're nothing special just an E7 head (E7TE) you could probably find some for 50.00 and just start again on the valves.
Option 2 would be a machine shop. I don't know what they charge in your area (call around maybe) but the local guy I would take them to here charges 225.00 a set to boil out the heads (clean clean),install new frost plugs, grind the seats, do a triple angle valve grind on the valves and reassemble the heads. I have to provide the new valve seals from my gasket set.
I would think that you probably still have more than enough meat left on those valves for a triple angle grind, and if not a good shop will usually be able to steer you in the right direction to find some good used valves for them to grind up for you.
If they tell you to go buy new ones, go shopping for a different machine shop.
That's just my opinion, but that's what I would do.
Biggest thing is that those are really common heads and used ones are dirt cheap. The money is in rebuilding them - which is cleaning them, making those 2 surfaces mate so they seal, and installing new valve seals.
10-15-2015, 07:41 PM
#26
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Well that wasn't exactly what you were going for, but not the end of the world.
The part that you originally had an arrow to is the face and it has to mate exactly with the seat in the head.
What you were doing would have brought you back to a regular grind on the valve seat, which is ok, but not the best grind anyway.
The margin part is not even important. The only important thing is that the face matches exactly with the seat so it will seal perfectly.
Option 1 is to find a set of used heads, they're nothing special just an E7 head (E7TE) you could probably find some for 50.00 and just start again on the valves.
Option 2 would be a machine shop. I don't know what they charge in your area (call around maybe) but the local guy I would take them to here charges 225.00 a set to boil out the heads (clean clean),install new frost plugs, grind the seats, do a triple angle valve grind on the valves and reassemble the heads. I have to provide the new valve seals from my gasket set.
I would think that you probably still have more than enough meat left on those valves for a triple angle grind, and if not a good shop will usually be able to steer you in the right direction to find some good used valves for them to grind up for you.
If they tell you to go buy new ones, go shopping for a different machine shop.
That's just my opinion, but that's what I would do.
Biggest thing is that those are really common heads and used ones are dirt cheap. The money is in rebuilding them - which is cleaning them, making those 2 surfaces mate so they seal, and installing new valve seals.
The part that you originally had an arrow to is the face and it has to mate exactly with the seat in the head.
What you were doing would have brought you back to a regular grind on the valve seat, which is ok, but not the best grind anyway.
The margin part is not even important. The only important thing is that the face matches exactly with the seat so it will seal perfectly.
Option 1 is to find a set of used heads, they're nothing special just an E7 head (E7TE) you could probably find some for 50.00 and just start again on the valves.
Option 2 would be a machine shop. I don't know what they charge in your area (call around maybe) but the local guy I would take them to here charges 225.00 a set to boil out the heads (clean clean),install new frost plugs, grind the seats, do a triple angle valve grind on the valves and reassemble the heads. I have to provide the new valve seals from my gasket set.
I would think that you probably still have more than enough meat left on those valves for a triple angle grind, and if not a good shop will usually be able to steer you in the right direction to find some good used valves for them to grind up for you.
If they tell you to go buy new ones, go shopping for a different machine shop.
That's just my opinion, but that's what I would do.
Biggest thing is that those are really common heads and used ones are dirt cheap. The money is in rebuilding them - which is cleaning them, making those 2 surfaces mate so they seal, and installing new valve seals.
10-15-2015, 07:48 PM
#27
Machine shop will magnaflux them for cracks, if no cracks found they will then grind the valves and the seats and make sure they seal. They will also check deck flatness, sometimes heads warp and there's no sense repairing unless they can also check other tolerances such as pushrod length etc and adjust accordingly.
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10-15-2015, 07:50 PM
#28
Senior Member
If it wasn't mentioned yet, there's an engine builder's thread. I'll have to look for the link. There's a lot of information in there and some of it doesn't apply to this thread, but it's good info.
10-15-2015, 07:52 PM
#29
10-15-2015, 07:55 PM
#30
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Thanks again for all the input. I use to just call up my dad and know I would be getting the best advice. While I inherited all his tools I didn't quite get all the wisdom.