inconsistent 5.8 rattle, help!
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I haven't completely eliminated the manifold leaking from being cracked or leaking where it bolts to the block, seems like I remember reading it not having gaskets where it bolts to the block. Id just like to eliminate it being my heads and transmission.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just read this......."Clatter can be caused by a LOT of factors, or any combination: fuel quality, ignition timing, valve timing, combustion chamber deposits, spark plug design, air-fuel ratio, oil pressure at the lifters, exhaust restriction, exhaust leak, vacuum leak, altitude, engine tune, sensor/actuator malfunction/aging, overheating, insufficient EGR, etc." Thats alot to check, so I guess Ill start tomorrow with cleaning the egr. DOes my truck have two, one for each manifold? And Ill still check to see if exhaust is leaking at manifolds, because on the way home I thought I might have heard something, but could be imagining it.
#14
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: near Portland Oregon
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Tips from Big Byrd 70 (ex Ford tech):
Check for:
1. carbon track in distributor cap
2. poorly grounded coil
3. poorly grounded fuel pressure regulator (located on the D/S wheel well the grey thing with big heat sink)
4. corroded coil tower
DIY tip: Clean the ground sources. Remove corrosion using Brake Clean or Electrical contact cleaner [or] Replace parts as necessary
Check for:
1. carbon track in distributor cap
2. poorly grounded coil
3. poorly grounded fuel pressure regulator (located on the D/S wheel well the grey thing with big heat sink)
4. corroded coil tower
DIY tip: Clean the ground sources. Remove corrosion using Brake Clean or Electrical contact cleaner [or] Replace parts as necessary
Last edited by DIY; 05-25-2013 at 03:30 PM. Reason: rewrite
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Tips from Big Byrd 70 (ex Ford tech):
Check for:
1. carbon track in distributor cap
2. poorly grounded coil
3. poorly grounded fuel pressure regulator (located on the D/S wheel well the grey thing with big heat sink)
4. corroded coil tower
DIY tip: Clean the ground sources. Remove corrosion using Brake Clean or Electrical contact cleaner [or] Replace parts as necessary
Check for:
1. carbon track in distributor cap
2. poorly grounded coil
3. poorly grounded fuel pressure regulator (located on the D/S wheel well the grey thing with big heat sink)
4. corroded coil tower
DIY tip: Clean the ground sources. Remove corrosion using Brake Clean or Electrical contact cleaner [or] Replace parts as necessary
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'd be so feakin happy if it was, much better than gummed up heads or worn timing chain, which I fear it is. But obviously start easy and work from there. How can bad electrical connections cause what sounds like lifters rattling, I;d just like to understand, not just know.
#18
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: near Portland Oregon
Posts: 147
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Bad grounding and corroded electrical connections are the 2 most common causes of electrics related issues. High resistance results in reduced voltage or amperage delivery to sensors and the ecu. I first thought it might be a bad knock sensor until I saw Big Byrd 70's post on a different forum website. His tips came from practical experience. Mine came from past experience.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Bad grounding and corroded electrical connections are the 2 most common causes of electrics related issues. High resistance results in reduced voltage or amperage delivery to sensors and the ecu. I first thought it might be a bad knock sensor until I saw Big Byrd 70's post on a different forum website. His tips came from practical experience. Mine came from past experience.
#20
Senior Member
No, but they could cause a miss fire condition, or detonation, which SOUND LIKE, valve chatter.