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Old 02-06-2015, 04:50 PM
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dumplin
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i have a 1995 f150 that will idle just fine untill you give gas then it acts like running out of gas. i have changed fuel filter,pump,pickupscreen & maf sensor put vacuum gauge on shows no leaks no obstructions good timming. Just had motor rebuilt trans rebuilt. motor has 20,000 miles trans has 12,000 got to much $ in it to get rid of it any suggestions on what to do next also put fuel pressure gauge on it said was getting 32 psi at idle cant tell with rpms up it dies did koeo test only got 111 stored codes 211 334 koer got 111 stored 225 & 311. Any ideas?
Old 02-07-2015, 07:59 AM
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The majority of the codes seem to be electrical related to the distributor and emissions system

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/eec-iv/

You might try this:
Disconnect your battery and then hold the brake pedal for maybe 30 seconds, then let the truck sit 20-30mins. Hook the battery back up and let the truck idle until it smooths out then see what happens. This procedure reset the computer back to it's originally programmed settings settings.

Hope this helps!
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dumplin bizness (02-07-2015)
Old 02-07-2015, 12:17 PM
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32 psi is not good. The truck will run between 30 to 45 but below 30 it will just stumble and die. Key on engine off you should be looking at 42 to 45 psi with a new pump and filter.
After you start it, that will drop maybe 5 to 8 psi when the fuel pressure regulator is open (like at idle) and climb back up as you open the throttle. The regulator operates on vacuum to open it.
Sounds like you could have a piece of crap new pump in there. Did you buy a high quality one or a cheapy ?
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Old 02-07-2015, 03:07 PM
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Spectra Premium/Fuel Pump
Old 02-07-2015, 04:04 PM
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They're usually OK, but not up to Motorcraft standards, as you can no doubt tell by the price.
(Motorcraft is pricey in comparison, but you have to remember that most of those original equipment pumps lasted 20 years and are still working).
You don't say if you have dual tanks, but if so the other pump could have a check valve problem.
You can also lose pressure through the injectors if they're not closing properly (dirty seats).
Best thing to do is put the fuel pressure gauge on and do a key on engine off test. You should get more than 40 psi right away. Then it should hold that pressure for at least a few minutes.
If it won't hold pressure that's either a bad pump check valve or a leaking injector.
If it will hold pressure but just not produce enough (at least 42 with a new pump and filter) then I would assume the pump to be bad. Warranty.
At that point I'd try to get my money back and put it towards a better pump. You don't want to be changing them every month.
Old 02-07-2015, 04:08 PM
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The other thing to check is your throttle position sensor. It should have an initial output reading of about .9, which should rise and fall steadily (no flat spots) as you open and close the throttle plates. Max wide open about 5.0
Old 02-08-2015, 10:46 AM
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just to let everybody know it turned out to be the distributer was bad the bearings where bad and wobbling so it was an easy fix once figured it out thanks to everyone




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