lingiminu

Hi there, very long time troll to this site, you guys are awesome and have helped a lot over the years with my; 99' 5.4l xlt 4wd expo, 08' f-150 super cab 4wd, 06' 6.4l 8' quad cab dully diesel, and 99' 5.4l Lariat.

It's the Lariat that has finally brought me into the forum today and I hope i can piggy back on the manifold question and I'm in the right place (thread). I know the site is the right place for sure.

Inherited the 99' lariat a month ago and have been wrenching on it to get it up to a reasonable trade in and temporary replacement for wife's blazer with a blown trans. Basically trying to get her transportation and buy some time to trade in those 2 trucks and get her something without a snap decision.

Last weekend replaced all injectors and 2 plugs (this plays in later). Only 2 plugs due to fear of the dreaded snapped plugs, I wasn't going to risk more than that to take care of cyl 3 miss fire.

Now to the manifold, most likely since po30 went away after replacing, than returned I suspect real cause is the manifold, which is in real bad shape. visible hole on 4 and badly flaked/rusted all over. 140k miles, 15yrs old, Michigan winters and truck has sat for 4 yrs before i took it over.

Intending to replace passenger side manifold for the simple fact, to her it's loud, (ya babe it's a truck), which it really is when trying to get trade value on it and get the dummy light to go off. Otherwise I'd live with it.

I've spent days watching videos, and checking this site and all the tips or techniques involved in drilling out studs, cutting nuts, bathing in PB, torching the block for expansion, extractors, welding new nuts on, jigs to drill, lifting the block for lower access, etc, etc,. I have every thing on hand except the limitation of I'm not comfortable lifting the block (some say no need anyway), I don't have a welder, and MAPP torch is my best heat.

If i did have a welder I would jump right into it since for this truck i don't really care if the new manifold were welded in place to snapped studs, based on truck age, mileage and intended use.

I have patience going into this as far as the heat/PB/wiggle/cool/ repeat repeat repeat.
I'd even expect all 8 studs to possibly shear with in the block.

My main concern is this thing needs to go back on the road Mon morning and this operation to me seems a do or die no going back situation. Fine if it could sit in a barn and work on it each night.

What I haven't been able to gauge is some seem to be doing this replacement over the span of weeks for the PB soaking while others claim tedious but doable on a weekend. That's what I'd like more info on. I pulled wheel well/tire last night and soaked but is that typically enough before going into the actual stud removal and heating/soaking sequence in place and really how many cycles of that will end up being needed?

Question 2 is if i get the manifold off and get stuck can/should the truck be driven with open ports? Ya it'll be really loud but can I at least get it to a shop without setting the tire on fire or anything else?

Question 3 is should I even bother? Again my intent is only to quiet it and lose the check engine light for sake of trade in.

So what would you all do?
Skill--did pull #3 & 4 plugs and all injectors last weekend successfully.
Tools--missing welder, acyteline, and engine hoist access.
Truck--99' 5.4l Larriat, michigan winters, sat outside dead 4 years, 140k miles,
Added truck info. Dad drove to work mon-fri, like a grandpa, 20-30 min commute, no long trips, no hauling, don't know if those patterns worsen or lessen impact on bolts seizing into the block.
Time--needs to be done in span of 2-3 days

Thanks so much in advance, you all have been so helpful before. Sorry for post length, probably result of trepidation and procrastination.