EGR Delete (kind of)
#1
EGR Delete (kind of)
I just got done doing my 302 to 351w. Since I went to LT header I had no place to hook up the EGR valve to so I went out and bought a block off plate and the plus that's supposed to trick the computer into thinking the egr is closed. Well that was $40 wasted because the CEL come on right away and stayed on.
So here's my fix:
Hook up the EGR to the intake, plug it in, but take the pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold or the lower intake (5.0 motors) cut it down and use a small clamp on Breather(I got mine from O'Reilly's). It works perfect no CEL and I'm not running rich anymore. Obviously the reason for the Breather is so that you don't suck in unfiltered air into the intake when EGR is open. Here is a pic. I ended up shorting the pipe about 3 more inches and angled it so that it would tuck right along side of the heater hose.
So here's my fix:
Hook up the EGR to the intake, plug it in, but take the pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold or the lower intake (5.0 motors) cut it down and use a small clamp on Breather(I got mine from O'Reilly's). It works perfect no CEL and I'm not running rich anymore. Obviously the reason for the Breather is so that you don't suck in unfiltered air into the intake when EGR is open. Here is a pic. I ended up shorting the pipe about 3 more inches and angled it so that it would tuck right along side of the heater hose.
#2
I just got done doing my 302 to 351w. Since I went to LT header I had no place to hook up the EGR valve to so I went out and bought a block off plate and the plus that's supposed to trick the computer into thinking the egr is closed. Well that was $40 wasted because the CEL come on right away and stayed on.
So here's my fix:
Hook up the EGR to the intake, plug it in, but take the pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold or the lower intake (5.0 motors) cut it down and use a small clamp on Breather(I got mine from O'Reilly's). It works perfect no CEL and I'm not running rich anymore. Obviously the reason for the Breather is so that you don't suck in unfiltered air into the intake when EGR is open. Here is a pic. I ended up shorting the pipe about 3 more inches and angled it so that it would tuck right along side of the heater hose.
So here's my fix:
Hook up the EGR to the intake, plug it in, but take the pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold or the lower intake (5.0 motors) cut it down and use a small clamp on Breather(I got mine from O'Reilly's). It works perfect no CEL and I'm not running rich anymore. Obviously the reason for the Breather is so that you don't suck in unfiltered air into the intake when EGR is open. Here is a pic. I ended up shorting the pipe about 3 more inches and angled it so that it would tuck right along side of the heater hose.
#3
Haha thanks. Wish I would have done this before I spent $50 on a delete kit that was useless. Sometimes the easiest things are best. Since I did this I haven't trip an egr code.
Last edited by forrest411; 05-16-2017 at 09:10 PM. Reason: Typo
#4
EGR plugin
I'm curious. You stated that you bought a block off plate and that would trick the computer into thinking the valve was closed. Did you also purchase the egr delete plugin? The plugin is what tells the computer that the EGR is closed not just blocking off the port.
#5
Yes I bought the block off plate with the plug that supposedly is wired up with the right diodes to trick the computer into thinking the EGR is hooked up. Didn't work at all and was a complete waste of money. My solution ended up working perfect and only cost a few bucks for the mini air filter. Of course my EGR and sensor were good to begin with.
Last edited by forrest411; 07-11-2017 at 07:16 AM. Reason: Spelling
#6
I purchased a block off plate as well and installed it during teardown and rebuild and still trying to get the truck running right. Only bad thing is when I deleted the EGR I threw away the EGR valve and left the connector unplugged. After replacing all sensor the truck still hunts for a idle but runs great while driving. Could be due to the comp cams 268h camshaft and upgraded injectors. I have a IAC valve spacer adjuster showing up today, guess a lot of the mustang guys use them to combat rough idle with a big cam and gonna give it a try today. If this don't cure the problem I guess I will be buying a new EGR valve and doing you did and hooking it back up. A lot of people told me with a big cam and EFI there will always be a problem because the computer cant keep up with the cam?