302, Cranks but no fire from coil
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The research I've done on this problem indicates that, yes, the spark is initially generated in the distributor, by the crank sensor (PIP) sending a signal to the ICM. I've checked the crank sensor signal at the ICM and it is definitely there. I believe this indicates that the distributor is turning, but I'll still double-check that as soon as I get back to my truck (I don't have it home, but at my in-laws house as that was a much shorter tow than to my house).
#12
Senior Member
The research I've done on this problem indicates that, yes, the spark is initially generated in the distributor, by the crank sensor (PIP) sending a signal to the ICM. I've checked the crank sensor signal at the ICM and it is definitely there. I believe this indicates that the distributor is turning, but I'll still double-check that as soon as I get back to my truck (I don't have it home, but at my in-laws house as that was a much shorter tow than to my house).
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The distributor is turning when the engine is cranked.
I think I'm going to just bite the bullet and replace the distributor. If that doesn't do it, then it has to be a defective new ICM.
After about 170K miles, a new distributor can't hurt anyway.
I think I'm going to just bite the bullet and replace the distributor. If that doesn't do it, then it has to be a defective new ICM.
After about 170K miles, a new distributor can't hurt anyway.
#14
Senior Member
The most likely problem is the PIP (pickup module inside the distributor, does what points used to do, for old school guys like me). The other possibility is the ICM, which is mounted on the fender below the driver's hood hinge.
First you want to get a test light and make sure you actually have power to the coil when the key is on.
There are ways to test each individual part (check easyautodiagnostics.com) but you are most likely looking at a PIP or ICM.
First you want to get a test light and make sure you actually have power to the coil when the key is on.
There are ways to test each individual part (check easyautodiagnostics.com) but you are most likely looking at a PIP or ICM.
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
OK, so now I've installed a brand new distributor, and still the exact same problem, no fire from the coil, and no crank signal from the Ignition Control Module to the coil.
Tomorrow I'm going to take back the new ICM and try a different one, as the troubleshooting steps from easyautodiagnostics.com still lead me right to that module.
Anybody have any ideas on anything I'm missing here?
Tomorrow I'm going to take back the new ICM and try a different one, as the troubleshooting steps from easyautodiagnostics.com still lead me right to that module.
Anybody have any ideas on anything I'm missing here?
#16
Senior Member
Damn. Make sure they give you the right ICM. There are a couple of different ones. On a 96 I am pretty sure it should be fender mounted and black (not gray), but you may want to research that a little yourself to be sure. The parts stores screw it up all the time - ask me how I know LOL.
The following users liked this post:
coachk64 (07-03-2016)
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I sincerely hope it's that simple. Mine's fender mounted and black, and I'm pretty sure I remember that that's the one I got. I'll know more this evening.
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
So the new Ignition Control Module made no difference, still no spark from the coil, no signal from the ICM to the coil, PIP signal still coming from the new distributor. I'm officially out of ideas.
Any and all suggestions gratefully accepted.
Any and all suggestions gratefully accepted.
The following users liked this post:
coachk64 (07-03-2016)