1983 351 windsor woes
09-01-2013, 06:33 PM
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1983 351 windsor woes
I purchased a 1983 F-150 king cab with a 351 Windsor engine and no rust-out. It is so pretty in its baby blue paint job. Interior is mint. The problem is it likes to abandon me.
It starts and runs fine when cold, but when it heats up it kills and cannot be started again.
Here is my history (things I have fixed or replaced) it's a long list:
Complete break job including new lines
Replaced all the rubber parts of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel pump
Rebuilt the OEM motorcraft 2 barrel carb.
Replaced fuel filter and air cleaner.
Problem not solved. Mechanic said throttle body was cracked. OEM replacement would cost $950.00. No thanks!
I spent some money and replaced the OEM intake manafold and carb with an new edlebrock performer EGR compatible intake and edlebrock 600 CFM carb.
When it's running it goes like a bat out of hell! Alas, it still abandons me
New spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap & rotor.
No joy
Replaced the engine control module with a Borg Werner CBE11. Did I mention it was a california emission standards truck? Well it is even though it has lived all it's life in Wisconsin.
Still no joy. The only improvement is that I can get it to kill just by letting it idle in the driveway for about 15 min.
I just replaced the coil and it still kills.
It sounds great just idles along just fine. then all of a sudden it just stops running and I can't start it again for about an hour.
My vacuum lines are all connected or plugged.
My intuition tells me it's an electrical problem. However I could be wrong.
This truck is pre computer so please don't ask for codes.
Any ideas?
It starts and runs fine when cold, but when it heats up it kills and cannot be started again.
Here is my history (things I have fixed or replaced) it's a long list:
Complete break job including new lines
Replaced all the rubber parts of the fuel lines.
Replaced the fuel pump
Rebuilt the OEM motorcraft 2 barrel carb.
Replaced fuel filter and air cleaner.
Problem not solved. Mechanic said throttle body was cracked. OEM replacement would cost $950.00. No thanks!
I spent some money and replaced the OEM intake manafold and carb with an new edlebrock performer EGR compatible intake and edlebrock 600 CFM carb.
When it's running it goes like a bat out of hell! Alas, it still abandons me
New spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap & rotor.
No joy
Replaced the engine control module with a Borg Werner CBE11. Did I mention it was a california emission standards truck? Well it is even though it has lived all it's life in Wisconsin.
Still no joy. The only improvement is that I can get it to kill just by letting it idle in the driveway for about 15 min.
I just replaced the coil and it still kills.
It sounds great just idles along just fine. then all of a sudden it just stops running and I can't start it again for about an hour.
My vacuum lines are all connected or plugged.
My intuition tells me it's an electrical problem. However I could be wrong.
This truck is pre computer so please don't ask for codes.
Any ideas?
09-02-2013, 01:06 PM
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Woes update
Today I started tracing wires and eliminating unnecessary connectors. Only eliminated one so far. I decided to remove the EGR riser and valve assembly and eliminate that as a potential culprit. I placed a straight riser in place of the EGR riser. When I removed the riser I noticed the gasket between the riser and intake manifold was real slimy & soggy, It smelled like gasoline.
Once the carb was back on it started right up. It had a high idle so I punched the accelerator and it dropped into low idle. Low idle was still pretty fast so I backed off the low idle adjustment screw. It had no effect. I gunned the throttle and upon to returning to idle it killed. I screwed the low idle adjustment in a bit and started it again. Again it was idleing fast I gunned it and it killed again. I just drained the battery trying to start it again. I have the charger on it now. Will take another stab at it tomorrow.
Once the carb was back on it started right up. It had a high idle so I punched the accelerator and it dropped into low idle. Low idle was still pretty fast so I backed off the low idle adjustment screw. It had no effect. I gunned the throttle and upon to returning to idle it killed. I screwed the low idle adjustment in a bit and started it again. Again it was idleing fast I gunned it and it killed again. I just drained the battery trying to start it again. I have the charger on it now. Will take another stab at it tomorrow.
09-02-2013, 01:12 PM
#3
Pick up coil in the distributor
It sounds like you have replaced everything besides the pickup coil in the distributor. If you aren't getting spark that's most likely your problem . Everyone waits to replace that last since its the hardest thing to change. I would recommend just buying a rebuilt distributor since that is easier than replacing the pickup coil but its up to you , depends on your skill level
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09-03-2013, 07:13 PM
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Another update
Yesterday after posting I went out and started it again. Once the engine settles down to low edle it surged as if trying to find the idle point. It finally just shut off again.
Today I went out and removed the PCV tube from the manifold and capped it. This solved the surging problem. However, it idles fast. I adjusted the low idle down until it stopped running again. Now I can't get it to start. Once it cools off it will start again.
I have been looking at duraspark modules and distributor systems. I'm trying to figure out what I have. The module that was in it was a motorcraft duraspark model D9DE-12A199. I believe this system was California emissions compatible. I discovered this when I bought a replacement. The BWG the autoparts store had was not the same. It had different plugs. This one has 2 plugs five wires total. The wire colors are red white green, orange, black/green. Red & white go to one plug. the rest go the the other.
My distributer doesn't look like anything in my haynes manual. It has now electrical wires or connectors other than the normal spark and coil connections. It also has no vacuum advance. I see no provision for a centrifugal advance either. Timing is not adjustable by rotating the distributor. How do you time this thing? and how does it advance?
Today I went out and removed the PCV tube from the manifold and capped it. This solved the surging problem. However, it idles fast. I adjusted the low idle down until it stopped running again. Now I can't get it to start. Once it cools off it will start again.
I have been looking at duraspark modules and distributor systems. I'm trying to figure out what I have. The module that was in it was a motorcraft duraspark model D9DE-12A199. I believe this system was California emissions compatible. I discovered this when I bought a replacement. The BWG the autoparts store had was not the same. It had different plugs. This one has 2 plugs five wires total. The wire colors are red white green, orange, black/green. Red & white go to one plug. the rest go the the other.
My distributer doesn't look like anything in my haynes manual. It has now electrical wires or connectors other than the normal spark and coil connections. It also has no vacuum advance. I see no provision for a centrifugal advance either. Timing is not adjustable by rotating the distributor. How do you time this thing? and how does it advance?
09-04-2013, 08:30 AM
#9
Yesterday after posting I went out and started it again. Once the engine settles down to low edle it surged as if trying to find the idle point. It finally just shut off again.
Today I went out and removed the PCV tube from the manifold and capped it. This solved the surging problem. However, it idles fast. I adjusted the low idle down until it stopped running again. Now I can't get it to start. Once it cools off it will start again.
I have been looking at duraspark modules and distributor systems. I'm trying to figure out what I have. The module that was in it was a motorcraft duraspark model D9DE-12A199. I believe this system was California emissions compatible. I discovered this when I bought a replacement. The BWG the autoparts store had was not the same. It had different plugs. This one has 2 plugs five wires total. The wire colors are red white green, orange, black/green. Red & white go to one plug. the rest go the the other.
My distributer doesn't look like anything in my haynes manual. It has now electrical wires or connectors other than the normal spark and coil connections. It also has no vacuum advance. I see no provision for a centrifugal advance either. Timing is not adjustable by rotating the distributor. How do you time this thing? and how does it advance?
Today I went out and removed the PCV tube from the manifold and capped it. This solved the surging problem. However, it idles fast. I adjusted the low idle down until it stopped running again. Now I can't get it to start. Once it cools off it will start again.
I have been looking at duraspark modules and distributor systems. I'm trying to figure out what I have. The module that was in it was a motorcraft duraspark model D9DE-12A199. I believe this system was California emissions compatible. I discovered this when I bought a replacement. The BWG the autoparts store had was not the same. It had different plugs. This one has 2 plugs five wires total. The wire colors are red white green, orange, black/green. Red & white go to one plug. the rest go the the other.
My distributer doesn't look like anything in my haynes manual. It has now electrical wires or connectors other than the normal spark and coil connections. It also has no vacuum advance. I see no provision for a centrifugal advance either. Timing is not adjustable by rotating the distributor. How do you time this thing? and how does it advance?
Get the real information to repair it here
http://affiliates.eautorepair.net/z/24/CD10493/
the Haynes manuals aren't very helpful
09-04-2013, 03:52 PM
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No two wire connector
There is no 2 wire connector, and the base is held in position with a bolt tht is in a notch that will not let you change the timing. The only way to change the timing mechanicly is to remove the distributor and grind the notch wider in the direction you wish to rotate it. I'll take a few pix and see if I can post them.
Thanks!
Jim
Thanks!
Jim