300 i6 Rust in Oil
08-24-2013, 09:33 AM
#1
Farmer with a Wrench
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Location: where Fords come from (MI)
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300 i6 Rust in Oil
I have a 92 F150 with 183k orig mi. Truck was driven from northern Michigan to Ft Wayne Indiana with no oil filler cap. Obviously this got me slapped in the face by my wife, and created a vacuum leak in the engine. It only blew out about a pint of oil and luckily it all sailed right over top of everything that gets hot enough to ignite pooled oil.
Not one of my finer moments, but that's what happened. Shame.
Some moisture got in. The dipstick developed a rust spot, and there was a large amount of rust color in the oil. Also rough dry starts with lots of noise in the lifters, even after the oil was topped off.
Changed the oil, sanded the rust spot as best I could. The noise from the dry starts continued until I added lucas. Now it just feels like it idles even higher than normal for the first couple seconds, then idles like it should for the next few seconds before settling down to normal idle.
STILL FINDING RUST COLOR IN THE NEW OIL. Looks like clotted rust goop on the dipstick tip.
I started questioning the condition of the inside of the oil pan.
Did one more oil change and ran a clean quart through the engine and straight out the drain plug. Sure enough that quart carried sediment out that looked like maple syrup.
The whole time, even the drive to Ft. Wayne, the oil pressure dummy gauge was glued between the R and M. Changed the oil pressure sending unit for a dirty one out of my friend's Bronco, it stayed between N and O and showed a little movement when I hit the throttle. Put in a new sender and its back up to R and moves so little I can barely see it.
Current status: I wonder about the oil pressure and the oil pump. Light rust color to oil, and most times I pull up some rusty goop on the tip of the dipstick. Higher than normal idle at start is still there, but only when engine is cold. I can hear what I think is the lifter all the way to the rear making a light tick all the time. The tick is loudest with the stethescope placed just below the valve cover and right above the the spark plug all the way in the back.
The plan: 5 minute engine flush (red tin can), remove oil pan and clean it out, inspect oil pump, replace dipstick and tube, remove the valve cover and the pushrod cover (aka inspection plate) to see what I can see. Gotta do the pushrod cover gasket anyway. Put it all back together and pray the rust stops coming.
What would you do different? (Besides not driving without an oil cap.) Any insight on the oil pressure? When I take the covers off, what should I be looking for? The lifters are self adjusting, does that mean I cant do anything to them but replace them?? Any tips on the things I'm planning to do?
Thanks for reading all of that.
Not one of my finer moments, but that's what happened. Shame.
Some moisture got in. The dipstick developed a rust spot, and there was a large amount of rust color in the oil. Also rough dry starts with lots of noise in the lifters, even after the oil was topped off.
Changed the oil, sanded the rust spot as best I could. The noise from the dry starts continued until I added lucas. Now it just feels like it idles even higher than normal for the first couple seconds, then idles like it should for the next few seconds before settling down to normal idle.
STILL FINDING RUST COLOR IN THE NEW OIL. Looks like clotted rust goop on the dipstick tip.
I started questioning the condition of the inside of the oil pan.
Did one more oil change and ran a clean quart through the engine and straight out the drain plug. Sure enough that quart carried sediment out that looked like maple syrup.
The whole time, even the drive to Ft. Wayne, the oil pressure dummy gauge was glued between the R and M. Changed the oil pressure sending unit for a dirty one out of my friend's Bronco, it stayed between N and O and showed a little movement when I hit the throttle. Put in a new sender and its back up to R and moves so little I can barely see it.
Current status: I wonder about the oil pressure and the oil pump. Light rust color to oil, and most times I pull up some rusty goop on the tip of the dipstick. Higher than normal idle at start is still there, but only when engine is cold. I can hear what I think is the lifter all the way to the rear making a light tick all the time. The tick is loudest with the stethescope placed just below the valve cover and right above the the spark plug all the way in the back.
The plan: 5 minute engine flush (red tin can), remove oil pan and clean it out, inspect oil pump, replace dipstick and tube, remove the valve cover and the pushrod cover (aka inspection plate) to see what I can see. Gotta do the pushrod cover gasket anyway. Put it all back together and pray the rust stops coming.
What would you do different? (Besides not driving without an oil cap.) Any insight on the oil pressure? When I take the covers off, what should I be looking for? The lifters are self adjusting, does that mean I cant do anything to them but replace them?? Any tips on the things I'm planning to do?
Thanks for reading all of that.
08-24-2013, 09:37 AM
#2
If you keep running engine cleaners (I would recommend 1qt transmission fluid) you may start to develop leaks that have been sealed by sludge over time. If you are not worried about that then run the tranny fluid (1qt) for 100 miles and you internals will be nice and clean.
09-01-2013, 01:57 PM
#4
If you keep running engine cleaners (I would recommend 1qt transmission fluid) you may start to develop leaks that have been sealed by sludge over time. If you are not worried about that then run the tranny fluid (1qt) for 100 miles and you internals will be nice and clean.
