1993 300-6 efi ticking
#1
Junior Member
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1993 300-6 efi ticking
I have a 1993 F-150 with a 4.9L 300 EFI 6 cyl and a Mazda M5OD-R2 5spd... 4 wheel drive. I have 2 problems going on. I just replaced my clutch master cylinder after shifting issues and the pedal sticking. I bled it properly, but a week later I'm back to square one again. There is brake fluid seeping from the bellhousing. Could the slave cylinder be bad?? Another slight problem is that there is light ticking coming from the engine, and I cannot figure out if it is simply the rocker arms or what. I think it is coming from the top of the motor, but I am unsure. Thanks for the help.
#2
It's a Canadian thing eh!
If you have brake fluid from the bell housing then yes sounds like you blew the slave again, sometimes you just get a bad part. Shifting and clutch pedal will start to get significantly worse over time.
As for the ticking noise check to see if it could be an exhaust leak around the manifolds, it makes a similar noise. Could also be a lifter or rocker, try a can of sea foam or engine treatment with an oil change. If you have a high mileage engine try some higher weight oil.
As for the ticking noise check to see if it could be an exhaust leak around the manifolds, it makes a similar noise. Could also be a lifter or rocker, try a can of sea foam or engine treatment with an oil change. If you have a high mileage engine try some higher weight oil.
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Sosbee78 (05-11-2013)
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks. So what kind of oil do you recommend? I had been running SeaFoam in with Motorcraft synthetic blend 5W-20. Would Lucas be a good idea?? I need to change the rocker arm cover gasket anyway, so I will take a look at the rockers.
#5
It's a Canadian thing eh!
Personally I run 5W30 part synthetic year round because I live in a colder climate. Some people run 10w30 since that is what the truck was originally recommended for. A bottle of lucas never hurts for higher mileage engines.
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Sosbee78 (05-25-2013)
#7
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A mechanics stethoscope will help pinpoint the noise. Its just like a docs but has a steel rod at the end instead of the little disc. Costs about $5-$10. If its an injector, you'll hear it loud and clear when you put the rod tip against the one that clicks. If its internal you can at least get a ballpark on where its coming from. Either way it makes it much easier to listen to a specific engine area while blocking out unwanted noise.