boom50cal

Not completely sure if this would be the correct section for this, but it's going to be tied in with LED's mounted in my bed so I'll throw it in here.

I have an Aluminum tool box in the back of my truck. I am wanting to place some waterproof LED strips in it, and also along the lower portion of my bed rails. I am generally supporting guys that race alot, and need to be able to open the tool box and access my tools fairly quickly incase of emergencies. I have an AGM mounted in the tool box, so power/ground isn't an issue.

What I am wanting to do, is run the LED's off a switch that engages when the tool box opens. So when the lid is closed -- is off, when the lid is opened / it is on, along with the LED's mounted under the bed rails.

Anyone have any insight or direction into what kind of switch or controller I would need to look at? Not really a necessity but it would be nice to have a delay on them, especially the ones in the bed, so I can see the contents of the bedfloor whilst exiting the truck.

Thanks guys.

Toshbar

Something like this mounted in the box to turn the lights on when the lid opens. Could also do a separate one for the tailgate for the bed lights.

Pugga

iTrader: (1)

I'd use a tailgate switch. Same type of switch that was posted above but they're specifically used for tailgates so they're pretty stout and will hold up to slamming the lid of the tool box. The switch gets installed in line to the ground so when the plunger is down, it breaks the ground for the lights.

Toshbar

Something heavier duty like this?
If you put the switch on the ground, you could have two switches - one in the tailgate and one in the toolbox - so when either is opened, the lights turn on.

Pugga

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, just like that. The plastic plunger will eventually fail, the metal will hold up better. I'll see if I can find the part I used last time, but there's an OEM switch with a rubber boot on it all ready to go. I believe it was a tailgate switch from another brand.

boom50cal

Didn't even consider tail gate switches... Thanks guys.

Talked to another guy, Tony Candela, owner of CE Auto Electric Supply, and he has a setup that'll take care of me for $40-50 including relay and terminal block. Going to toss the idea of that kind of switch around with him. Will most likely have him build and assemble it in a nice little package, just for my ease of installation.

Again, thanks for the quick replies guys.

Toshbar

There's no need for a relay(unless you want the delay) for 40-50 watts of light.

Pugga

iTrader: (1)

$40-50 for a 'harness' is ridiculous, it'd cost you all of $5 to make one yourself, maybe $10 if you don't have any wire laying around and have to buy a spool. All you need is an in-line fuse, a couple connectors for the terminations (assuming the in-line connections will be soldered with heat shrink) and your tail gate switch. For something like this, you don't need a terminal block unless you're planning on having a lot of other wiring done for other accessories. The relay is also not needed unless you want to add additional controls for the lights. Just a simple 'turn on when opened' type of wiring does not require a relay. If you'd like, let me know and I can draw up a wiring diagram for you explaining how to wire the lights safely, without a terminal block and relay.

Relays aren't for adding a delay, they're for allowing a low power switch to control something with a much higher draw so you don't have to send all that power through the switch. A standard, off the shelf automotive relay will not have a built in delay. Delay relays are harder to come by.

Toshbar

Would you agree that a relay is not needed for 40w/3.3A using a 20-30A switch?

Pugga

iTrader: (1)

As long as the draw from the accessory and the size of the in-line fuse used is less than what the switch is rated for, a relay is not 'needed'. That being said, I do not like running power into and out of the cab, I like keeping power under the hood and running small control wires through the firewall to control a relay.

As a means of control, I found a circuit on the truck that is only 'hot' when the ignition is on, I use that to power all my switches, then go out to the relay. That means anything I have added will go dark when the truck goes off, lessens the chances of a dead battery. In that case, using a relay lets me tap into an existing circuit for control purposes without fear of overloading that circuit.

In this guy's case, I agreed with you in my previous post, there's no reason for a relay unless he wants another means to control the lights.