llangarica

i am installing 4 Rigid LED Pods as ditch lights (2 Dually Floods, and 2 D2 Hyperspots). i want them to all run off the same switch so therefore i only want to run a single harness. is it possible to run all 4 lights off the same harness? My biggest concern is if the harness is able to handle the load of the added 2 pods

i found these Deutsch y-splitters ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Y-Shape-Dual...RXaytb&vxp=mtr ) so i don't have to cut and splice the harness. would something like this work for what im trying to accomplish?

thanks in advance.

discodave

Here's my take. Others will have their own opinions on this, but this is what worked for me. I had 2 52 inch light bars on the same switch, wired directly to the battery, same harness, just spliced into each other. However, the original switch I had wasn't rated high enough to handle the load so I bought a better switch (40 amp maybe just to be safe) and I haven't had any problems at all.

Scarlet

The Rigid "D2" lights (Driving, Wide and Hyperspot) run on a harness that includes a relay. The Rigid "Dually" lights (Spot, Flood and Diffused) do not. So that is what you need to consider. I don't know if that may pose any overheating issues? I have a '12 Polaris Ranger 800 HD. I have Rigid lights on it. I just did a wiring project that included adding a Blue Sea #5025 Fuse Block, and making a custom wiring harness for all the lights (with a Deutsch 12 Pin connector). I also installed four OTRATTW illuminated switches and a set of Dually Spot lights. I already had a set of D2 Hyperspot Spot lights on it, so I know the difference between the harnesses. I also have a set of E-series 6" combo lights, and two sets of the SR-M2 mini driving lights.

llangarica

that's a nice setup you have there. i actually bought one of those Blue Sea boxes to make a relay switch setup, but the fuse block in my RV crapped out so i had to use it there.

i will be using the relay harness from the D2 Hyperspots. what overheating issues are you referring to? the relay itself or the wires?

Scarlet

In the past, I've made the mistake of not using a relay on a set of high power/amperage Halogen lights. I melted the switch, bezel and some of the wire lead. Todays LED lights pull much less amperage than those old Halogens did. If you are using the Rigid round rocker switch you should be OK. They handle up to 20amps. At 16 gauge (as opposed to 18) the wire on the Hyperspot harness is a little better. Just make sure you wire the relay to handle the load.

llangarica

Gotcha, thanks for that info. I will be using a contura III switch from otrattw which is also rated at 20 amps.

Pugga

iTrader: (1)

You can run as many lights off a single switch as you want. Your switch should never see the load from the lights!! If they do, you have not wired your setup properly. The switch itself should only be switching the relay which is minimal draw. Your relays should handle the load of the lights. You can run multiple lights off a single relay as long as you don't exceed the rating of the relay. Most automotive relays are rated to 30 amps and you can usually find 40 amp relays at Autozone or Advance Auto.

If you only want to use a single harness, make your own with your own wiring. The wires that come with a pair of lights is sized for a single pair of lights obviously with some factor of safety. If you want to add lights and that requires you to increase the size of the fuse, you should be running thicker wire to accommodate the draw. Wiring parts are very cheap, no reason to undersize and risk electrical issues.

Total Automotive Performance

iTrader: (3)

You can do it with the D2 Hyperspot harness, but do not do it with the Regular dually harness.

We also sell a heavy duty harness that could handle that load no problem, it runs $30.