Rigid SRM Back up / Reverse light kit - pic heavy
01-18-2016, 08:07 AM
#21
Rigid SRM or SRQ? They are both back up diffused lights with the same shape/size. The SRM has 2 LEDs, about 800 lumens, and is $175 vs the SRQ that has 4 LEDS 1600 lumens, ad is 225.00
Which ones are people using and what is necessary? I'd love the massive light at times, but also want these to be backup lights that are not sooo ridiculous I can't use them in a normal parking lot on a normal night.
I've looked and am having a hard time finding an automotive toggle like with a dimmer? I've seen an inline dimmer, but not sure it would be easy to access once I mount switch in truck. Toughts???
Which ones are people using and what is necessary? I'd love the massive light at times, but also want these to be backup lights that are not sooo ridiculous I can't use them in a normal parking lot on a normal night.
I've looked and am having a hard time finding an automotive toggle like with a dimmer? I've seen an inline dimmer, but not sure it would be easy to access once I mount switch in truck. Toughts???
01-18-2016, 08:11 AM
#22
I'm trying to decide on the rigid diffuse backup lights.
The question is SRM vs SRQ. The SRMs essentially have 1/2 the power and LEDs and are about 50 dollars cheaper. I think that I would prefer the bigger better lights with more ouput, but I'm a little concerned about having too much output when I'm using them as backup lights in normal daily driving. I've looked for switches with dimmers and can't find anything great that is automotive. Maybe an inline dimmer, but not sure where to locate this within the wiring that would make it accessible. Which version have people been using and what are their thoughts? Thanks.
The question is SRM vs SRQ. The SRMs essentially have 1/2 the power and LEDs and are about 50 dollars cheaper. I think that I would prefer the bigger better lights with more ouput, but I'm a little concerned about having too much output when I'm using them as backup lights in normal daily driving. I've looked for switches with dimmers and can't find anything great that is automotive. Maybe an inline dimmer, but not sure where to locate this within the wiring that would make it accessible. Which version have people been using and what are their thoughts? Thanks.
01-18-2016, 08:26 AM
#23
Here's how I see it...the SRM are completely adequate. My fronts are tinted @ 35% and they provide enough light to compensate for the tint.
The SRQ would be enough light and more, but to each their own.
I had a fella in a Jeep tailgating the living crap out of me Friday night on I95 in NJ...in the rain no less. I flicked on the SRM and he quickly backed down, so yes they do put off enough light behind the truck to fend off the random tailgater.
As you can see earlier in the post, I use the 3 way toggle from Rigid's kit. It's a nice loomed bundle. I'm happy with it.
The SRQ would be enough light and more, but to each their own.
I had a fella in a Jeep tailgating the living crap out of me Friday night on I95 in NJ...in the rain no less. I flicked on the SRM and he quickly backed down, so yes they do put off enough light behind the truck to fend off the random tailgater.
As you can see earlier in the post, I use the 3 way toggle from Rigid's kit. It's a nice loomed bundle. I'm happy with it.
02-11-2016, 06:30 PM
#24
F150 Forum
iTrader: (3)
SR-Q are about double the width compared to the SR-M
Not an F150, but a very very detailed install that may help some.
Remember, we have the very best Rigid prices around, send us any quote and we will beat it!
Posted by Barryhaim on T4R.org
First, I take no credit for thinking of this mod. Back in 2012 @Ducmonsta posted an excellent write-up installing SRM2’s in rear factory bumper. Immediately this was added to my “to do” list, so here’s credit where credits due!
Second, many thanks go out to @TotalAutomotiveLV for providing outstanding customer service, fast shipping, and best price! Sent PM Monday, order shipped Tuesday, package arrived Thursday, thanks Chas and Mike!
Ok, now for the meat and potato’s………………..
Objective: Increase rear night time visibility when backing up (not many street lights in New Hampshire), hooking up trailer, loading trailer, and tying down 4 wheelers. Paint mounting flange to match factory paint. As with all my mods, maintain an OEM look.
Difficulty: 5-6, basic wiring. It’s not difficult, but some may be reluctant to cut their perfectly good bumper. “Cut it once, cut it big” doesn’t apply here, accuracy is key.
Wiring: Since lights draw only 3.3 amps (3,136 LM output), I will not be installing included relay kit. Will direct wire to trailer plug harness located driver side rear frame rail. Yellow wire is positive (+) when vehicle is shifted to reverse, White wire is ground (-). Lights will turn on whenever vehicle is in reverse or when I turn on already install AOB aux switch Factory (style) Fog Light Switch- Fits knock-out!
Tools required: Tape measure, Masking Tape, Air Saw, Square, Grease Pencil, Razor knife, Ratchet, extension, 10mm socket, File, Cordless drill , ¼” & 3/8” drill bits, Wire crimper/stripper, Wire Ties, Soldering iron/solder, Heat shrink, Electrical Tape (3M Super 88), 7/16” wrench, 7/64”, 5/32” Allen wrenches, paint, primer, red scuff pad.
Rigid Industries SR-Q Back Up Light Kit, part #98003. Include harness, relay, switch, mounting hardware, wiring diagram, and template.
I found the included template too large so I did not use, instead measured housing and found mounting hole should be 1 7/8” x 5”
Time to disassemble housing to prep for paint, using 7/64” allen wrench, remove 6 bolts. Note: two center bolts are slightly longer than the four outside bolts. While holding back of housing and a finger on lens, carefully remove mounting flange.
Light housing disassembled. There are two gaskets to prevent moisture intrusion, one seals mounting flange to housing, one between clear lens/ and mounting flange. Also, reflector assembly is not attached to housing, so be careful when disassembling.
Lens to flange gasket has a flat ribbed side and a curved side. The flat ribbed side goes toward clear lens, curved side goes toward flange. If you install backwards, light won’t seal properly…………..remember this!!!!!!!
Not an F150, but a very very detailed install that may help some.
Remember, we have the very best Rigid prices around, send us any quote and we will beat it!
Posted by Barryhaim on T4R.org
First, I take no credit for thinking of this mod. Back in 2012 @Ducmonsta posted an excellent write-up installing SRM2’s in rear factory bumper. Immediately this was added to my “to do” list, so here’s credit where credits due!
Second, many thanks go out to @TotalAutomotiveLV for providing outstanding customer service, fast shipping, and best price! Sent PM Monday, order shipped Tuesday, package arrived Thursday, thanks Chas and Mike!
Ok, now for the meat and potato’s………………..
Objective: Increase rear night time visibility when backing up (not many street lights in New Hampshire), hooking up trailer, loading trailer, and tying down 4 wheelers. Paint mounting flange to match factory paint. As with all my mods, maintain an OEM look.
Difficulty: 5-6, basic wiring. It’s not difficult, but some may be reluctant to cut their perfectly good bumper. “Cut it once, cut it big” doesn’t apply here, accuracy is key.
Wiring: Since lights draw only 3.3 amps (3,136 LM output), I will not be installing included relay kit. Will direct wire to trailer plug harness located driver side rear frame rail. Yellow wire is positive (+) when vehicle is shifted to reverse, White wire is ground (-). Lights will turn on whenever vehicle is in reverse or when I turn on already install AOB aux switch Factory (style) Fog Light Switch- Fits knock-out!
Tools required: Tape measure, Masking Tape, Air Saw, Square, Grease Pencil, Razor knife, Ratchet, extension, 10mm socket, File, Cordless drill , ¼” & 3/8” drill bits, Wire crimper/stripper, Wire Ties, Soldering iron/solder, Heat shrink, Electrical Tape (3M Super 88), 7/16” wrench, 7/64”, 5/32” Allen wrenches, paint, primer, red scuff pad.
Rigid Industries SR-Q Back Up Light Kit, part #98003. Include harness, relay, switch, mounting hardware, wiring diagram, and template.
I found the included template too large so I did not use, instead measured housing and found mounting hole should be 1 7/8” x 5”
Time to disassemble housing to prep for paint, using 7/64” allen wrench, remove 6 bolts. Note: two center bolts are slightly longer than the four outside bolts. While holding back of housing and a finger on lens, carefully remove mounting flange.
Light housing disassembled. There are two gaskets to prevent moisture intrusion, one seals mounting flange to housing, one between clear lens/ and mounting flange. Also, reflector assembly is not attached to housing, so be careful when disassembling.
Lens to flange gasket has a flat ribbed side and a curved side. The flat ribbed side goes toward clear lens, curved side goes toward flange. If you install backwards, light won’t seal properly…………..remember this!!!!!!!
02-11-2016, 06:31 PM
#25
F150 Forum
iTrader: (3)
Purchased rattle cans at Advanced Auto Parts for $23.00. Dupli-Color Super White, White Pearl, and Clear.
Cleaned flange with mineral spirits to clean and remove contaminates, using a red scuff pad, scuffed entire front of flange. Blow dust off so you have a clean surface. For best results, paint in a dust free area with no air movement. Apply two coats of self etching primer.
Once dry, apply two coats of Super White, then two coats of White Pearl.
Once dry, apply two coats of clear, set aside to thoroughly dry.
24 hours later, reassemble light assembly. Admire your handy work, not bad for a rattle can eh.
Time to disassemble rear bumper cover, with 10mm socket remove 5 screws shown by red arrows (5th is on end of mud flap), then remove two push pins on mud flap (not shown). Remove black inner trim panel, procedure is the same on driver and passenger side.
Since my vehicle has reverse sensors, harness on both outside sensors needs to be disconnected. To release plug from sensor, push down on release tab (red arrow) with finger while pulling back on plug. Next, harness between outer and inner sensor are held by tape (green arrow), remove tape so harness is now out of way. Driver side is basically the same except you are only able to move it down enough to allow cutting bumper.
Cleaned flange with mineral spirits to clean and remove contaminates, using a red scuff pad, scuffed entire front of flange. Blow dust off so you have a clean surface. For best results, paint in a dust free area with no air movement. Apply two coats of self etching primer.
Once dry, apply two coats of Super White, then two coats of White Pearl.
Once dry, apply two coats of clear, set aside to thoroughly dry.
24 hours later, reassemble light assembly. Admire your handy work, not bad for a rattle can eh.
Time to disassemble rear bumper cover, with 10mm socket remove 5 screws shown by red arrows (5th is on end of mud flap), then remove two push pins on mud flap (not shown). Remove black inner trim panel, procedure is the same on driver and passenger side.
Since my vehicle has reverse sensors, harness on both outside sensors needs to be disconnected. To release plug from sensor, push down on release tab (red arrow) with finger while pulling back on plug. Next, harness between outer and inner sensor are held by tape (green arrow), remove tape so harness is now out of way. Driver side is basically the same except you are only able to move it down enough to allow cutting bumper.
02-11-2016, 06:32 PM
#26
F150 Forum
iTrader: (3)
Next, time to position lights on bumper. Since bumper has a curve to it, placing straight edge against bumper and moving outward as far as possible until straight comes off bumper (two black vertical marks). Distance from sensor to light flange was 6 ¼”. This was the flattest point……….if that makes any sense???
Laid out hole to be cut on left and right side, as mentioned before I used 1 7/8” x 5”
Apply masking tape (3 layers) to protect paint. Drill 4 - 3/8” holes, one in each corner, makes it easier to start each cut.
Holes cut! Take file and clean edges, test fit light, adjust as needed.
Tape removed…………….
Measured and cut harness longer than I needed, added wire loom to protect wires. Routed light harness along reverse sensor harness with wire ties.
Plug light into harness, insert into hole, drill two ¼” mounting holes, insert included stainless steel hardware, tighten. Reconnect reverse sensor plug, tie up any excess light wire harness, reinstall lower black trim panels.
Make final light harness connection to trailer harness, red wire of light harness to yellow wire, black wire from light harness to white wire. Ensure waterproof connections! Test lights……
Laid out hole to be cut on left and right side, as mentioned before I used 1 7/8” x 5”
Apply masking tape (3 layers) to protect paint. Drill 4 - 3/8” holes, one in each corner, makes it easier to start each cut.
Holes cut! Take file and clean edges, test fit light, adjust as needed.
Tape removed…………….
Measured and cut harness longer than I needed, added wire loom to protect wires. Routed light harness along reverse sensor harness with wire ties.
Plug light into harness, insert into hole, drill two ¼” mounting holes, insert included stainless steel hardware, tighten. Reconnect reverse sensor plug, tie up any excess light wire harness, reinstall lower black trim panels.
Make final light harness connection to trailer harness, red wire of light harness to yellow wire, black wire from light harness to white wire. Ensure waterproof connections! Test lights……
02-11-2016, 06:32 PM
#27
F150 Forum
iTrader: (3)
Night shots…………sorry for the crappy cell phone photos.
Final thoughts………………………WHY DIDN’T I DO THIS SOONER! Light output is excellent, have had wicked bright high beams, now wicked bright reverse lights! Very happy with the results.
Final thoughts………………………WHY DIDN’T I DO THIS SOONER! Light output is excellent, have had wicked bright high beams, now wicked bright reverse lights! Very happy with the results.
03-01-2016, 08:05 PM
#28
Night shots…………sorry for the crappy cell phone photos.
Final thoughts……………&h ellip;………WHY DIDN’T I DO THIS SOONER! Light output is excellent, have had wicked bright high beams, now wicked bright reverse lights! Very happy with the results.
Final thoughts……………&h ellip;………WHY DIDN’T I DO THIS SOONER! Light output is excellent, have had wicked bright high beams, now wicked bright reverse lights! Very happy with the results.