Powering fog light switch...NEED HELP
#1
Powering fog light switch...NEED HELP
Okay well I've spent the last 24 hours searching the forum to answer the questions i have and so far it has been extremely helpful. I want to install 2 - 2" led bars in the spaces next to front license plate. Well thanks to all the guys on the forum i already know how to run my wires and the best way to get through the firewall into the cab. But i still have no idea whats the best way to power the switch itself. I see that most people like to intergrade their aftermarket fogs with their factory fog switch witch i don't want to do that. I just want to have a separate rocker switch for my new fogs (so i can just click them on when i go into the woods in the morning). ANYWAY can anyone tell me the best place to power the switch from?
Btw the kit i purchased from 4wparts is a rigid Dually Series Spot LED Light its supposed to come with everything.
Thank you for your time!
Btw the kit i purchased from 4wparts is a rigid Dually Series Spot LED Light its supposed to come with everything.
Thank you for your time!
#2
Okay well I've spent the last 24 hours searching the forum to answer the questions i have and so far it has been extremely helpful. I want to install 2 - 2" led bars in the spaces next to front license plate. Well thanks to all the guys on the forum i already know how to run my wires and the best way to get through the firewall into the cab. But i still have no idea whats the best way to power the switch itself. I see that most people like to intergrade their aftermarket fogs with their factory fog switch witch i don't want to do that. I just want to have a separate rocker switch for my new fogs (so i can just click them on when i go into the woods in the morning). ANYWAY can anyone tell me the best place to power the switch from?
Btw the kit i purchased from 4wparts is a rigid Dually Series Spot LED Light its supposed to come with everything.
Thank you for your time!
Btw the kit i purchased from 4wparts is a rigid Dually Series Spot LED Light its supposed to come with everything.
Thank you for your time!
Get out yer test light or DVM, and find a 'hot-in-run' source in the SJB - there should be several.
Using a mini Add-a-fuse, etc, use this switched feed to power one side of a standard 30/40A Bosch ISO automotive relay ( or included relay if adequate). Run the other side of the coil to yer in-cab-switch (switch will have it's other terminal to ground).
Mount the relay in the engine compartment to avoid running high current wiring through the firewall. One side of N.O relay contact direct to battery with proper fusing. - other side to lights. Ground the lights.
Not sure of the quality of the harness you have, hence to above vebiage.
Lamps will turn off when the truck is off to prevent battery drain if you fergit.
Always use a replay to switch yer loads. Always fuse yer wiring appropriately and use correct wire gauge and type ( 105 deg C )
Some general wiring best-practices info contained in this thread: https://www.f150forum.com/f38/adding...g-noob-256557/
Good luck
MGD
Last edited by MGD; 05-09-2014 at 10:05 AM.
#3
Hi. Get out yer test light or DVM, and find a 'hot-in-run' source in the SJB - there should be several. Using a mini Add-a-fuse, etc, use this switched feed to power one side of a standard 30/40A Bosch ISO automotive relay ( or included relay if adequate). Run the other side of the coil to yer in-cab-switch (switch will have it's other terminal to ground). Mount the relay in the engine compartment to avoid running high current wiring through the firewall. One side of N.O relay contact direct to battery with proper fusing. - other side to lights. Ground the lights. Not sure of the quality of the harness you have, hence to above vebiage. Lamps will turn off when the truck is off to prevent battery drain if you fergit. Always use a replay to switch yer loads. Always fuse yer wiring appropriately and use correct wire gauge and type ( 105 deg C ) Some general wiring best-practices info contained in this thread: https://www.f150forum.com/f38/adding...g-noob-256557/ Good luck MGD
#4
Most auto parts stores. Made by Littlefuse - you need the size that fits yer SJB.
http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/fi...fhm02fha02.pdf
If you have clearance issues (as some report), you'll need to find another source for 'hot-in-run'. Sorry I don't have that model-year truck.
MGD
#5
Hi. Most auto parts stores. Made by Littlefuse - you need the size that fits yer SJB. http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/fi...fhm02fha02.pdf If you have clearance issues (as some report), you'll need to find another source for 'hot-in-run'. Sorry I don't have that model-year truck. MGD
Thank you so much man you've been really helpful. I just realized that the kit i ordered does have a built in fuse by the battery connect but it doesn't come with a relay because i guess it doesn't draw much power. Would you recommend adding a relay inside the engine compartment anyway just to be safe? Or will i be okay without it? Again thanks for all your help
#6
.
Thank you so much man you've been really helpful. I just realized that the kit i ordered does have a built in fuse by the battery connect but it doesn't come with a relay because i guess it doesn't draw much power. Would you recommend adding a relay inside the engine compartment anyway just to be safe? Or will i be okay without it? Again thanks for all your help
Thank you so much man you've been really helpful. I just realized that the kit i ordered does have a built in fuse by the battery connect but it doesn't come with a relay because i guess it doesn't draw much power. Would you recommend adding a relay inside the engine compartment anyway just to be safe? Or will i be okay without it? Again thanks for all your help
That's your call, sir. I always advise it as a general best-practice.
What do the specs say? If it's only a couple / few amps and the harness and switch is appropriately sized and fused, should be fine. Pay special attention to wire routing and protection (use split-loom) to ensure it does not ground out somewhere due to chafing and wear.
Best of luck!
MGD
#7
Hi. That's your call, sir. I always advise it as a general best-practice. What do the specs say? If it's only a couple / few amps and the harness and switch is appropriately sized and fused, should be fine. Pay special attention to wire routing and protection (use split-loom) to ensure it does not ground out somewhere due to chafing and wear. Best of luck! MGD
http://www.f150lifts.com/Rigid-Indus...-Two_p_79.html
Trending Topics
#8
I'll use the 15 watt spec they mention near the end of the description as worst-case.
Hence - at a nominal 12 volts, that's ~ 2.5 amps draw for the pair.
Should be good to go. Fuse them @ 5 amps, max. Fuse should as close to the battery as possible to protect the entire harness.
best of luck
MGD
#9
Hi. I'll use the 15 watt spec they mention near the end of the description as worst-case. Hence - at a nominal 12 volts, that's ~ 2.5 amps draw for the pair. Should be good to go. Fuse them @ 5 amps, max. Fuse should as close to the battery as possible to protect the entire harness. best of luck MGD
#10
Hi. I'll use the 15 watt spec they mention near the end of the description as worst-case. Hence - at a nominal 12 volts, that's ~ 2.5 amps draw for the pair. Should be good to go. Fuse them @ 5 amps, max. Fuse should as close to the battery as possible to protect the entire harness. best of luck MGD