FittsyF150

honestly yes i i have issues seeing at night and with these in the headlights and fogs i see very well...i had 8000k in my ranger and hated them because they were to blue and less light output..imo the 6000k is perfect

bobkyle2

i had the 8000k in my 93 f250... and tho they looked good .... they sucked...lol ive not really messed with the HID's since...

dplummer87

I have 6000k all around. They are white with a hint of blue. Very bright on the road

SallyTwoDiqs

I have DDM's 8000K Hi/Lo kit, and personally I like the shade it has. If I were to do it again I would more than likely buy the 6000K, but from another manufacturer.

I have had DDM replace my HID's twice already and I always have ONE bulb in each set they give me that bounces horribly in high beam. I have tried absolutely EVERYTHING to fix it or to even figure it out. They keep telling me that they ran tests on the bulbs I sent back and there was nothing wrong with them. My argument is, why would I send them back TWICE in two weeks if nothing was wrong? They wanted a video of the bouncing, but I have tried 3 cameras and a 720p digital film camera, but nothing shows the bouncing. In person they are very annoying and noticeable and the one that bounces sometimes won't ignite until I try it 4-5 times. Their quality and service is (to say the least) questionable.

I'll add pix when I figure out how.

Youtube Video Links:
- Part 1
- Part 2
- Part 3

TunaSlayer

Wow thanks for that info Sally...that is some crazy ****. Haven't seen HIDs do that before. Why wouldn't they just send you a new set? I plan on ordering from Jon (HID vendor on this forum). He seems to really back his products and is very responsive here on the forums.

sambrian2007

I just got my DDM Tuning 5K Hi/Los and fogs in last night. I will try to get some pics up this weekend if you are still interested. I too would like to see someones 5K pics? I don't recall seeing too many people with them but I didn't want even a hint of blue. Hoping I got the right ones.

TunaSlayer

Yes please keep posting. I'd like to see some pics at dusk so the camera can better capture the lights and not have so much glare. I'm no photographer and I'm sure I'm butchering the terminology. Thanks.

SallyTwoDiqs

They were willing to "Advance Replace" them for me as long as I paid $20. Then once they got my old ones they would refund the $20. Well I sent the old ones back right away (same day), and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with them and werent going to issue a refund... I asked why not and they said that the bulbs I sent worked perfectly. Well, why would I send them back 2 days after getting them in the first place? Why would I WILLINGLY pay $20 to advance replace them (where they send you the NEW ones prior to you sending back their old ones) if nothing was wrong with them to begin with? They tried to screw me out of $28, OHH thats the other thing too! They invoiced me for $20 for the new bulbs, but charged me $28. It's currently being disputed with my CC company.

So, I currently have a set of bulbs (the initial replacement) and one bulb in this one is ALSO bad. They refuse to warranty them without charging me ANOTHER $20 (or $28) when this SECOND pair was also defective. So no help on DDM's part at all.

Thoughts? My current bulbs are also defective, they wont help... Anything would be more than what they are offering and much appreciated.

sambrian2007

Ugh.. I'm hoping I don't have the same problems you are having Sally2... if I do I will probably uninstall, trash them and put my halogens back in.

SallyTwoDiqs

Update:
I just got off the phone with DDM, they are looking further into the situation (we will see exactly what that means). I understand that they actually have 2 different "styles" of the HID's that install essentially the same with the only minor difference being that they are grounded to the chassis (self tapping to something metal) instead of through the relay to the battery. Either way really should work, but depending on the location, contact, and many other unforeseeable variables, the grounding to the chassis has the highest likelihood of failure/future problems. I suppose you could always run a longer ground (not always a good option, the shorter the ground wire the better) and connect them to the battery. That's how the Slim Ballast kit is set up, through a relay to the battery, so I don't see how skipping the relay would hurt other than cosmetically it wont look AS clean. None-the-less I will take a high resolution video tonight of the current set up and post it here for review.
If anyone has ideas of how to BETTER show the bouncing in a "real life" way I'm open to anything.
Until tomorrow morning, when I once again become bored at work...

Actual LINK: (Embedded vid isn't in HD.)