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Old 11-30-2013, 10:53 PM   #1
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Question Need some clarification about doing the LED bedlights

I'm getting ready to install the LED bed lights as many have done in the epic 60+ page thread but there are a few things I'm not clear about.

They are several different ways that people have installed them and here's how I want to do it:

  • Tap into Cargo / Courtesy light wire in cab
  • Run wire back along the frame and up to the bed extender hole where I will place an on/off switch (photo example of this location here)
  • Run LED strips along all three sides just under the frame rails

So- based on that, here's what I'm not quite clear about:

  1. Given this setup, is an inline fuse required? My impression based on the lengthy thread is that one is not required since there already is one for the courtesy/cargo light.
  2. In various threads about this style of installation, folks have tapped into the grey/violet spotted wire along the sill either towards the front or rear kick plate and either the driver or passenger side. Does it matter which location I pick? I'd prefer the driver's side since I want to place my switch on the driver's side of the bed.
  3. While doing some other work today, I looked under my cab ('13 Scab) for the grommet that I would need to use in order to run my wire back to the truck bed. There looks to be one in the flood in the rear corner of the cab. Is this the grommet that others are using?
  4. From what I can tell about the 16 ft strip of lights, the transition from side bed to cab side bed is too sharp an angle for the lights so that will force me to cut the strip into three pieces and then solder in connecting wires in the corners. Is that right? Can anyone post a photo of this corner from their installation?
  5. Lastly, I think I'll need to have two ground wires- one for the switch and then a second for the negative connection on the initial LED strip. Is that right?
Thanks all!
Steve
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:48 PM   #2
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Steve, you Should have a Grommet on the Front and rear of each pass. And driver side sills running into the interior by the wire looms!

A add a Fuse is not Required, but would be a Smart precaution so it would kill power to the Bed-lights should you run into wiring problems and don't cause Damage to OEM wiring/circuits!...

Unless you can work Magic, your most likely gonna have to cut and run 3 separate runs of leds in the bed!

You'll only need to run 1 Ground! You'll just run from your Grounding Point, to the Switch then to each Individual LED strip!

I tapped into the 7-pin trailer harness, and used the Supplied Relay, and made my own Jumper wire as I Don't tow and this way they have power with key on/off! So I can't help with pics on that!


Honestly I would only run 2 strips, one per Bed Side! As that Will Light up the entire Bed! A 3rd would only be cosmetic IMO....


Good luck, and you'll love this Mod....
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Last edited by Toddman34; 11-30-2013 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:18 AM   #3
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If you are using any color other than red, it will be very bright just by doing the two sides and skipping the bed front (with good quality led strips... 300 led per roll)... saves soldering the front ends. once the strips are in place they are very hard to repair a broken end wire, so the less solder joints the better the rolls have wires soldered on both ends so you can do the two sides with out even worrying about soldering to the led strips
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Old 12-02-2013, 01:19 AM   #4
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I tapped into the 7-pin trailer harness, and used the Supplied Relay, and made my own Jumper wire as I Don't tow and this way they have power with key on/off! So I can't help with pics on that!
....


Does tapping into the trailer harness trick the truck into thinking there is a trailer attached?
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:18 AM   #5
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Does tapping into the trailer harness trick the truck into thinking there is a trailer attached?
I use the four pin harness for my light bar when I am not pulling a trailer with no negative effects at all. There might be an issue if you used the larger connector though, but I am not sure why you would go that route if the smaller connector is available.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:38 PM   #6
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Thanks for the responses so far.

Running two strips instead of three to save on wiring seems like a wash. Soldering two small connectors between strips seems like a lot less work than having two long strips and having to run a longer wire to connect one side with the other.
@Toddman34- I'm still a little confused about your ground description. I understand that I run a ground wire from the ground tab of my switch to a ground location on the body or bed of the truck. What about the ground wire leads located on the LED strips?

I got all my parts today so I might get to dive into this on the weekend. Thanks again!

Steve
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scole View Post
Thanks for the responses so far.

Running two strips instead of three to save on wiring seems like a wash. Soldering two small connectors between strips seems like a lot less work than having two long strips and having to run a longer wire to connect one side with the other.
@Toddman34- I'm still a little confused about your ground description. I understand that I run a ground wire from the ground tab of my switch to a ground location on the body or bed of the truck. What about the ground wire leads located on the LED strips?

I got all my parts today so I might get to dive into this on the weekend. Thanks again!

Steve
Its Simple! Run your Ground to Grounding Point on truck, then to your Switch! Then from the Ground on your Switch to the - on your led strips!
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:17 AM   #8
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Does tapping into the trailer harness trick the truck into thinking there is a trailer attached?
No sir, not at all! The LEDs draw such low amps, when compared to halogens! It would take days, if not longer to Drain your battery if you were to forget the Leds were left on!
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:39 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Toddman34 View Post
No sir, not at all! The LEDs draw such low amps, when compared to halogens! It would take days, if not longer to Drain your battery if you were to forget the Leds were left on!


16 foot roll (300 led per roll) takes about 2 amps to light up... I was more wondering if the brake controller would think there was a trailer behind and maybe activate the Trailer Sway Control
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:01 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Toddman34 View Post
Its Simple! Run your Ground to Grounding Point on truck, then to your Switch! Then from the Ground on your Switch to the - on your led strips!
Thanks for being patient. Almost got it- just one last thing to clear up. It sounds like I need to splice my two ground wires (one from my LED string & one from my body ground source) together as they connect to the ground connector on my switch, correct?
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:01 AM
 
 
 
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