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Drop-in replacement light sources (HID/LED) - comparisons and other info

Old 02-04-2016, 04:46 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by DontCome2MyHouse
How do these do with DRL function?
They don't have a half-power setting (no HID kit will be compatible with a half-power setting)

The turn signals are also a running light (dual filament)



Feel free to give us a call if you would like more information: (314) 205-3033

Nick C.
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DontCome2MyHouse (02-04-2016)
Old 02-04-2016, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Diode Dynamics
They don't have a half-power setting (no HID kit will be compatible with a half-power setting)

The turn signals are also a running light (dual filament)



Feel free to give us a call if you would like more information: (314) 205-3033

Nick C.
Nick,

What do you mean by "The turn signals are also a running light (dual filament)"?? I can use my turn signal as a DRL???
Old 02-04-2016, 09:57 PM
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Looks to be a switchback style bulb in there for turn signal
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Old 02-05-2016, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by DontCome2MyHouse
Nick,

What do you mean by "The turn signals are also a running light (dual filament)"?? I can use my turn signal as a DRL???
The turn signal is a dual filament socket, meaning you'll have a running light and it acts as the turn signal as well

The bulbs pictured above are switchbacks, which have a white running light and blink amber when the turn signal is applied.

Nick C.
Old 02-05-2016, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Diode Dynamics
Another thing you'll want to keep in mind when looking for tail light / turn signal locations is the disparity between the running light and full power setting of the bulb. A quality LED will have a significant disparity in brightness between running light & brake light application.

To illustrate this, here's a comparison with the stock incandescent bulbs and our mid-level HP11 LED option (310 lumens / measured).

/SNIP

---------------------

This is important for safety because other drivers need to be able to tell when your brakes are applied. It should be very obvious!

Also, @AZN_Optics is correct. You'll want to match the color of the LED to the color of the lens, otherwise you'll have washed out color vs. a nice deep red.

Hope this helps!

Thank you,
Nick C.
Nick,

Are all those pictures taken with the same camera settings? I have been looking for LED tails with greater disparity and wanted to make sure before placing my order.

Thanks
Old 02-05-2016, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Fritzz
Nick,

Are all those pictures taken with the same camera settings? I have been looking for LED tails with greater disparity and wanted to make sure before placing my order.

Thanks
Fritzz,

Our LED turn signal and tail light replacements have been designed to take that disparity into consideration.

The difference between single and dual output is very noticeable and perfectly safe.

That's a big problem with a lot of poorly designed LEDs on the market

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Old 02-05-2016, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Diode Dynamics
Fritzz,

Our LED turn signal and tail light replacements have been designed to take that disparity into consideration.

The difference between single and dual output is very noticeable and perfectly safe.

That's a big problem with a lot of poorly designed LEDs on the market

Nick C.
Thanks!! Order placed. I hope to add some comparison shots of what I have compared to the Diode Dynamics HP48s. I will replicate the camera settings to attempt provide consistent research material.
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Old 02-07-2016, 12:15 PM
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Thanks for this thread. I've replaced most halogens - interior and exterior - with LEDs. A year or so ago, I replaced the front turn signals with VLED's 'Triton' white-amber switchback assembly, and was in fact the de-facto testing guy for their system in terms of testing various options for relays and resistors on that unit because I was initially experiencing random blinks from white to amber. We settled on a relay connection to the battery, and it worked. I have my DRLs running too, which may or may not have led to the problems or contributed to them. I'm not sure why the relay is needed, but it seemed that their system simply needed more power for that direct-to-battery relay. When they worked, they looked great (you can see them in my avatar image at left)!

However, since then, the VLED control box continually fails, eventually. It works maybe a couple of months, but inevitably it goes bad again. That's where I am now. I'm tired of having to ask VLEDs to send me another control box or boxes when they fail. They do send it, no questions, but it's simply getting tiring having to remove the headlamp assembly all the time to get to and replace their control box. I've done it so many times I can do it in my sleep So now I've got the stock amber bulb in the housing, but I'm looking to try another LED in the 3157 turn signal spot. But I have some questions before I take out the stock bulb w/another LED.

If I decide to go w/the switchback option again, it seems that there are many options out there - mostly using SMDs or a combination SMD with forward-shooting lens. Do these work as advertised - i.e., no relay required, only a resistor (or having the "light fail" monitoring disabled by the dealer to avoid hyperflashing and the need for a resistor)? I ask because the VLED prescription required a host of connections - bulb to control box, control box to resistor, relay to battery. During my months-long back and forth with VLEDs testing various assemblies they sent to me to try and report back, they said that the Ford system is more tricky than others; not sure if this is true generally or if it was an issue with VLEDs' setup. Additionally, I'm concerned about how the DRL might impact the LED in terms of lifespan - since the 3157 light will be on all the time/whenever I'm driving - and/or other things I may not know.

I'm itching to get back to the solid on/off of an LED in the turn signal action when compared to the slow fade of stock bulbs, but want to hear from folks who've had success. I liked the 3157 discussion above, but in looking at the Amazon comments on the JDM ASTAR PX, it looks like some people have been seeing individual SMD failures. Part of me wants to get a relatively cheap LED like that one (i.e., $30), but another wants to go with something apparently more solid, such as what Diode Dynamics offers - but I'm not keen on shelling out $100+ again. I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts and suggestions on what to go with. Tell me why I should go with one vendor's product vs. another.

BTW, what does the dealer usually charge to disable the "light out" monitoring function? This really works? I wish I knew that before I installed tail light LEDs and associated resistors. TIA.

Last edited by terraformer; 02-07-2016 at 12:24 PM.
Old 02-07-2016, 02:03 PM
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This has been my journey thus far for my front turn signals.

I initially started out with some JDM Astar Super Bright 5730
Link Link
. These gave me the instant on and off that I had been craving, but I have found out there wasn't enough differential between high and low. It made it hard to see and hard to tell if I had my signals on. Those were returned.

I figured the best way to get differentiation was to go the switchback route with an Amber - Off pattern. So I picked up a set of JDM ASTAR Super Bright AX-2835
Link Link
. These gave me the switchback function I wanted but they just did not feel bright enough. So those went back.

Finally I picked up a set of JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright 3030
Link Link
. These say they are super bright and the definitely are. I found the functionality and brightness I wanted. I cannot speak to longevity as they have only been in the truck for a month.

I did not try to get the dealership to disable the "light out" code, I just went with
these these
resistors. I don't get any warnings and definitely do not have hyperflash.

I purchased a set of LED high/low headlights and after reading this thread they are definitely not adjusted properly and I will probably end up returning them. The color temp is very close to my LED switchbacks which looks great but ultimately I want to go with a HID retrofit once I get a few other projects out of the way.
Old 02-08-2016, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Fritzz
This has been my journey thus far for my front turn signals.

I initially started out with some JDM Astar Super Bright 5730 Link. These gave me the instant on and off that I had been craving, but I have found out there wasn't enough differential between high and low. It made it hard to see and hard to tell if I had my signals on. Those were returned.

I figured the best way to get differentiation was to go the switchback route with an Amber - Off pattern. So I picked up a set of JDM ASTAR Super Bright AX-2835 Link. These gave me the switchback function I wanted but they just did not feel bright enough. So those went back.

Finally I picked up a set of JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright 3030 Link. These say they are super bright and the definitely are. I found the functionality and brightness I wanted. I cannot speak to longevity as they have only been in the truck for a month.

I did not try to get the dealership to disable the "light out" code, I just went with these resistors. I don't get any warnings and definitely do not have hyperflash.

I purchased a set of LED high/low headlights and after reading this thread they are definitely not adjusted properly and I will probably end up returning them. The color temp is very close to my LED switchbacks which looks great but ultimately I want to go with a HID retrofit once I get a few other projects out of the way.

Which headlight bulbs did you go with ?

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